Domaine Marcel Deiss - Burg, 2011
The Deiss family has been growing grapes since 1744, although the current Domain was founded in 1947 by Marcel Deiss after returning from the Second World War. Based in Bergheim, a lovely town 17 km north of Colmar, Domaine Marcel Deiss today owns 26 hectares of vineyards. The estate is run by Marcel Deiss’ grandson, Jean-Michel Deiss. With the help of the respected oenologist Marie-Hélène Cristofaro, the Deiss family today produces without doubt some of the most interesting wines in Alsace (and in France).
Jean-Michel Deiss is a striking personality in the wine world. He has been labelled as a maverick or rebel. From Jean-Michel’s perspective, he advocates a return to origin: his aim is to make wine in the same manner as the original Alsatians. Single varietal wines are a (relatively) modern phenomenon assures Deiss.
His most famous wines are labelled as “Vins de Terroirs”. They are field blends from ten or more different grape varieties from a single vineyard. Whites of impressive characters, these wines are (in Deiss’ vision) the purest expression of terroir. The “Vins de Terroirs” (like the “Burg” presented) are labelled as “Cru d’Alsace” because Alsace Grand Cru appellation rules only allow selected varietals.
Burg is the name of a vineyard not too far from the Altenberg Grand Cru, north-west of Bergheim. The vineyard enjoys a southern exposure. Its soil is rich in marl and limestone.
Appearing a brilliant pale lemon-hue in the glass, to the nose it’s immediately vibrant, intense and concentrated. Notes of ripe pear mingle with stone fruit and even a touch of red wild berries – such as raspberry and currant. Ethereal floral accents (iris and rose) and a touch of mushroom surround the primary fruit flavours. A shimmering saline minerality (with aromas of wet rocks, seaweed, flint) wraps everything together.
On the palate, this wine confirms the impression gained from the nose. It’s full-bodied, complex, intense with a huge sturdy elegance. Thanks to concentrated flavours and a perfect high acidity, it is structured and has barely detectable residual sugar. Nuances of pear and ripe grapefruit mark the attack, which then give way to succulent stone fruit, mushrooms, iris, dried herbs and tar-like notes. The wine is pervaded by a majestic and marked minerality – tingling and enlivening your taste buds in pure delight. Massive, intense it is also captivating and full of energy. A wine of huge presence and personality. Long mineral finish. This white will age splendidly.