Domaine Marcel Deiss - Altenberg de Bergheim, 2011
Domaine Marcel Deiss was founded in 1947 by Marcel Deiss after returning from the Second World War. Today, the estate is run by Marcel Deiss’ grandson, Jean-Michel Deiss.
Jean-Michel Deiss is a striking personality in the wine world. He has been labelled as a maverick or rebel. From Jean-Michel’s perspective, he advocates a return to origin: his aim is to make wine in the same manner as the original Alsatians. Single varietal wines are a (relatively) modern phenomenon assures Deiss.
Domaine Marcel Deiss produces a wide array of wines, grouped into three categories: “Vins de Fruits”, “Vins de Terroirs” and “Vins de Temps”. Their most interesting (and famous) category is “Vins de Terroirs”. Deiss believes these wines convey the true sense of terroir in Alsace.
Altenberg de Bergheim is a revered Alsace Grand Cru situated 17km north of the commune of Colmar. It is very close to the medieval village of Bergheim – Deiss’ headquarters. Altenberg de Bergheim is one of the few exceptions in the Grand Cru appellations where producers are allowed to blend several grape varieties into their wine. In fact, it was the Deiss family that petitioned for this modification in the Grand Cru appellation rules.
The wine shines a rich gold hue in the glass. On the nose, it is all at once spectacularly intense, concentrated, complex and elegant. In the attack, ripe peach and candied lemon bits merge with tropical notes of lychee and honey mango. Nuances of sage, acacia, dried sultanas can also be detected. In the secondary wave, an intriguing floral note kicks in, mostly orange blossom and lilies. Scents of marzipan, gingerbread, honey reveal the presence of botrytis.
On the palate, this exceptional wine opens up with a melody of elegance and concentration. Stone fruit, raisins and lychee notes intertwine with liquid honey, marzipan and baked quince. A floral perfume adds an inebriating sensation, while at the edges, bolts of flinty minerality are found.
Exceptional wines like this defy contradictions. This wine is both intense and delicate, full-bodied and dense but also pervaded by an impossible silkiness and refinement. The acidity is high, just on-point, making this Alsace Grand Cru alive. Extremely long and elegant finish. A vinous masterpiece.