The six attributes of quality in wine

Is quality in wine subjective or objective? Does it matter? A discussion of the differences between objective quality and personal preference

Quality in wine is a massive topic. It’s not really surprising that countless books and essays exist on the subject. There is no general consensus among wine critics and connoisseurs on what quality is and how we should measure it.

However, determining the quality of a wine is part of the wine tasting method described in my previous blog series. I purposely avoided diving into quality in wine in detail in those previous articles. Quality as a topic is complex and fascinating enough to deserve an article on its own.

Let’s start with a general definition. The Oxford Dictionary describes quality as:

The standard of something as measured against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence of something.

From the above, we can draw three conclusions about quality. First, quality defines the excellence of something. Second, quality is measurable. Third, we infer what quality is not – subjective. 

Quality and subjective preferences

In the wine world, the confusion between quality and personal taste often leads to disastrous outcomes. What happens when you don’t or can’t distinguish one from another? You end up with views that completely undermine the very idea of applying objective quality standards to wine.

Tim Hanni embodies this attitude. A wine consultant and Master of Wine that built a reputation as an anti-snob, Hanni states that:

Received wisdom holds that certain wines are simply the best, and that anyone who disagrees is stupid, unsophisticated, or both

Tim Hanni

What does best mean specifically? Again, it’s not clear if the writer is addressing personal taste or an absolute (and objective) measure of quality. 

Questions such as “do I like this wine?” or “is this a good wine?” are based on two completely different principles. Both are worth considering. However, they belong to two distinct spheres. As such, I will deal with each separately.

Do I like the wine?

“De gustibus non disputandum est”. This Latin adagium translates as “about tastes, it should not be disputed/discussed”. It could not fit more here. Whether you like a wine is really a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong answer.

Also, in the realm of personal preferences, context is of paramount importance. A simple local wine might be perfect for a romantic dinner. You love that wine in that particular context, which may be due to the company, the atmosphere or a myriad of other factors. In fact, your adoration may have nothing to do with the inherent quality of that specific elixir.

Nobody should judge anyone for their personal taste. Who does that is clearly affected by an incurable disease – snobbism. My advice for the rest is as follows: live and let live. It’s always interesting to discuss among wine lovers their tastes and preferences. But please avoid trying to persuade others that your preference is the right of it. When it comes to personal taste, everyone is right. Because nobody is wrong really!

Is it a good wine?

Theoretically quality (in wine and life) is an objective factor. As such quality is measurable and explainable. Wine guru Jamie Goode says that wine quality is “something outside ourselves”. In other words, subjectivity does not come into the equation.

In practice, however, the concept of wine quality is much more elusive. And it’s not immune from subjectivity. It is not an easy endeavour to separate absolute quality from your subjective taste, especially early in your wine journey. While I accept that it is not an easy task, I see it as the only way to fully grasp wine.

The aim is to develop an objective approach to quality in wine. For this reason, you need a set of quality criteria that are:

• Objective: their evaluation does not depend on the taster’s personal preferences
• Measurable: you have a set of values to rate the criteria against
• Transferable: the meaning of the quality criteria is clear and shared across wine lovers

In the wine world, connoisseurs disagree on the exact number and nature of the quality factors to consider. I will offer my personal view based on my vinous studies (I don’t want to reinvent the wheel!). I believe there are six characteristics that determine quality in wine: balance, intensity of flavours, complexity, clarity, typicity and length of finish.

Balance

Great wine is about nuance, surprise, subtlety, expression, qualities that keep you coming back for another taste. Rejecting a wine because it is not big enough is like rejecting a book because it’s not long enough, or a piece of music because it is not loud enough

Adventures on the wine route – Kermit Lynch

Balance is probably the most defining characteristic exhibited by great wine. High quality wines always have a harmonious balance among its components. 

There are different elements that must be in balance with each other. Balance usually manifests at different dimensions. Some examples:

• In white wines, acidity and alcohol/sugar should match; if the acidity is not enough compared to the wine’s sweetness level, the drink will appear cloying
• For reds, tannins, acidity and alcohol should all be in balance
• Fruit/sugar on one side, and acidity/tannins on the other should be in symmetry
• If oak is used, a balance should exist between primary and secondary flavours, to avoid wood aromas covering fruity and fresh nuances

On a general level, every element (flavour or structural component) should be well integrated into the wine’s aromatic profile. Ideally, the wine’s components and scents should coalesce into a seamless harmony. If the components appear separated or something sticks out at the expense of others, then the wine lacks balance.

Intensity of flavours

A wine that has diluted and faint flavours is hardly a superb wine. On the other hand, a wine that is concentrated, with defined and strong aromas, is more likely a quality one.

I described what intensity of flavours is in my previous wine tasting series. Observe the intensity flavours recorded both on the nose and palate. Would you define it as pronounced?

Clarity

Great wines display definition and clarity of flavours. The different aromas are perceived as focused, precise and expressive. Conversely, if the flavours appear blurred that detracts from the overall quality of the wine. 

To understand clarity in wine, think about listening to music via a radio station. If the radio frequency is not perfectly tuned, you can still hear the song, but the melody is disturbed. The music loses its integrity, disrupted by interference and discordant noises. Conversely, when the station is perfectly tuned, you can hear the music clearly. The sound is precise and free from annoying distortions.

Complexity

Excellent wines are complex and multi-layered. They display a wide array of different flavours and nuances. You need time to go through all their subtleties. Their bouquets evolve, unfurling countless aromas. A complex wine is pervaded by a mystery, that is only gradually unveiled. You need to return to the wine again and again to unfold its intricacies. One sip leads to another. One glass to the next.

Simple wines are one-dimensional; they usually say only one thing. They may still be good, but often the message they convey is straightforward and direct.

Complexity is a sign of quality, but there’s a caveat. Sometimes the style of a wine is such that it is intended to have a clear and pure varietal expression. In that case, the wine might appear less complex such as not having secondary or tertiary aromas but still be an exceptional wine. For example, this happens with Sancerre or Prosecco wines. The usually display only primary flavours. They are meant to be fresh and youthful. Can they still be good? Of course!

Typicity

Normally an outstanding wine is typical. Meaning it is the quintessential example of its place of origin. In other words, great wines reveal a sense of place. They fully express the terroir, to use the elusive French term. For a complete overview on this concept, check my article What it terroir?

To understand typicity, think about pears. An amazing William Pear smells and tastes like the archetypal William Pear. It should be aromatic and perfumed to the nose. When biting it, the fruit should be crunchy, tart, slightly gritty. With such juicy and smooth flavours you can only describe it as a “William Pear”. 

The same rule applies to a wine that displays great typicity. Its aromas and characteristics perfectly embody the style or place from which the wine belongs. For example, sour red cherry with savoury, balsamic and earthy notes, combined with soaring acidity and good level of tannins are a clear signature of Chianti. Stone fruit, ripe citrus with a steely and flinty minerality, soaring acidity and medium to full body on the palate – that’s an Alsatian riesling!

Consider that the notion of typicity may not apply to all wines. Some wines are purposely made using an experimental or atypical approach. In those cases, it makes little sense to consider typicity as a quality factor.

Finish length

As mentioned in my previous article about wine tasting, the finish encompasses the sensations after you swallowed (or spat) the wine. The finish length (or sometimes more simply the “finish”) describes how long these sensations linger on the palate and their intensity. Finish is an important indicator of quality in wine. Two dimensions of finish length exist: duration and distance.

Finish length as duration is the most obvious trait. Great wines are very persistent, and their attractive flavours last several seconds (even a few minutes!) after they have been swallowed. Some wine experts measure the finish length in caudalie. This unit measures the duration of the aromatic persistence of a wine on the palate after you have swallowed (or spat) the liquid. One caudalie is equal to one second. A fine wine usually has a finish of 8 or more caudalies.

You can also assess the finish length in terms of distance. In this case, the finish indicates the physical length the wine aromas travel in your mouth before dissipating. If your wine’s flavours barely reaches your tongue before evaporating, that wine’s finish is short. On the other hand, if the scents extend all the way throughout your tongue, and well into the back of your throat, that is an indication of a great wine. The latter is said to be (spatially) long.

A judgment on quality

Once you know which quality factors to consider, you can proceed to making a judgment for the wine you have tasted. Some people find it inappropriate (even offensive) to judge wine. They say making wine is a form of art and as such it shouldn’t be rated with trivial or objective means. Personally I don’t find anything wrong in judging wine. We rate movies, music, books – why should wine be the exception? 

There are a few approaches to scoring wine:

• A discrete quality level terminology; for example, WSET school uses 5 values: poor, acceptable, good, very good, outstanding
• A “star” system; Vivino uses a five star scoring system; wine are judged with stars instead of quality terms, but it’s basically the same thing
• Some wine critics use a 100-point scale, or 20-point scale

Consider your quality criteria and how many boxes the wine ticked. Is it great in each category? If yes, it’s outstanding (or 5 stars). Does it score highly in four out of the six categories? Then it’ll probably be very good (3.5 – 4 star).

Even though I have nothing against rating wine, I advise against evaluating a wine using solely a scoring system. Try to integrate your score with some descriptive words –  a sentence or two to explain your critical assessment. That will make your judgment more complete and round.

Does objective quality kill the wine’s poetry?

What I described in this article may sound like a mathematical formula to some of you. Quality as an objective feature, measurable with a set of impersonal factors. You might feel that such a scientific approach to quality in wine kills its poetry. This is a thought I have entertained often when discussing a wine’s quality.

Good wines have an aura of mystery and spirituality. Reducing these wines to a set of cold and measurable quantities might sound heartless. However, if you think about it, the same assessment happens in every art form. That does not prevent critics appreciating the beauty in the artwork – even if there are flaws and difficulties. After all, a wine as a whole (like art) is often greater than the sum of its parts in its ability to transport us somewhere or make us feel. In light of this, scores and critical judgments shouldn’t hinder the sense of amazement and wonder we cherish towards wines we consider to be exceptional.

In other words, be aware that even the most precise quality evaluation will fail to fathom the greatness of wines that as a whole are masterpieces. Personally I’m glad it’s this way! Otherwise wine would be just another boring beverage and we would miss one of the most intriguing sensorial experiences in our life.