To celebrate the end of my Chianti series, seven prime Chianti wines. Makes sense of this wine regions with examples of different appellations and quality levels
Welcome to the third and final article (at least for now!) dedicated to Chianti. After a torrent of words, maps and infographics about this wine region, I will now present some notable Chianti wines that I’ve tried over the last few years. The idea is to give you an indication of what to expect to find in a glass of Chianti, based on the different appellations or quality levels.
A brief recap…
Before delving into the tasting notes of these Chianti – a short summary of what I have published so far on this famous Tuscan wine region.
- The history of Chianti: A fascinating recollection of the pivotal events taking place in the Chianti wine region. From its origin in the Middle Ages, to the battles of the Consortium, the birth of Chianti Classico in the 20th century and its evolution to the present day
- The grapes, Chianti appellations and quality levels: Sangiovese and the other blending grapes used in the region. The geography and terroir of Chianti, as well as the five-level quality pyramid that exists for Chianti wines
Some Chianti Wines
I hope you enjoyed my Chianti series so far. Any resource aimed at explaining the intricacies of the Chianti region would be incomplete without the true stars of this story: the wines and their producers.
I selected a few examples of wines from the Chianti region. As usual, I will provide a brief background of the producer and then share my personal tasting notes. Salute!
The wines
Conte di Lucca - Chianti, 2016
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera
Average price: £7
Conte di Lucca is a label owned by Casa Vinicola Botter, a large Italian wine producer and distributor. Founded in 1928, the company started small but expanded considerably over the following decades. Today, Casa Vinicola Botter owns multiple brands and releases a wide range of Italian wines, most of which are destined for the foreign market. Conte di Lucca is one of these brands. Its focus is on Chianti production. The wine below is their base Chianti DOCG wine.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 17-May-2018)
Ruby in the glass, the wine’s colour has a pale to medium intensity. On the nose, it shows a medium level of concentration, with simple red fruit aromas (red plums, cranberry). Surrounding the edges are touches of toast. On the palate, it has a fresh acidity, medium level of tannins and simple flavours that mirror the nose. A quaffable wine, but nothing to write home about.
Wine and other Stories rating: 7.4/10
Fattoria Selvapiana - Chianti Rufina Riserva - Vigneto Bucerchiale, 2015
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Rufina DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): Sangiovese
Average price: £27
During the Middle Ages, Selvapiana was a watchtower meant to protect the north-east border of Florence. During the Renaissance, the estate’s ownership alternated between local nobility and the bishops of Florence. In 1827, the Giuntini family purchased the estate and its surrounding territories.
Today, the sixth generation of winemakers, Federico and Silvia Giuntini, run Selvapiana. The property consists of 250 hectares (58 of which are planted with vines) spread over the communes of Rufina, Pontassieve and Pelago. The vineyards are on the foothills of the Apennines, just on the border between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna. Here the climate is colder than most Chianti Classico, with higher excursions between day and night temperatures. As a result, the grapes mature slowly, preserving high acidity and nuanced elegant flavours.
Bucerchiale is Selvapiana’s flagship wine. It’s a single vineyard wine, produced only in the best years. Made entirely from sangiovese, this wine is vinified as naturally as possible. Low addition of sulphites, slow maceration and the use of wild yeast. It’s matured in French oak (15% are new barrels) for 15 months before release.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 19-Feb-2019)
The wine is light ruby in the glass, with medium intensity of colour. On the nose, its flavour intensity is pronounced, although a huge elegance is noticeable from the first whiff. The wine opens up beautifully with a mix of red and black fruit mingling with a dense thick layer of herbal spices and earthy nuances. From the fruit side, red and black cherry, succulent raspberry, blackberry and a touch of prunes. Then a pleasant savoury and earthy note comes through, mixed with a wonderful scent of mediterranean spices. Notes of laurel, liquorice, myrth, vivid balsamic herbs combine with hints of soy sauce. Delicately toasty around the edges, with undertones of old bark and an elegant earthiness laced with violet and lilies nuances. On the nose this wine overflows with class and a terrific aromatic breadth. A wine to sniff over and over again…
On the palate, the body is medium to full, harmonised by an impeccable high acidity that makes the wine alive and peppy. It’s really perfumed and aromatic all the way through, very refined. Ripe (but far from jammy!) red and black fruit notes swirl into an intense balsamic feeling. This alternates with savoury notes, turned wet soil, earth, liquorice, wild dried herbs and laurel. The tannins are medium to high, refined and smooth. Not a muscular structure, but rather gentle in nature. The aromas overall are focused and pronounced in intensity. The finish is long, smooth, with a savoury – almost saline – note that persists for a long time. This wine has huge class and refinement. It’s the definition of elegance. Outstanding.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.1/10
Isole e Olena - Chianti Classico, 2015
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Classico DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 82% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo Nero, 3% Syrah
Average price: £22
The de Marchi family founded Isole e Olena, one of the most prominent Tuscan wine producers. In the 1950s, they moved from Piemonte to Tuscany, where they purchased two adjoining estates, called “Isole” and “Olena”. From the fusion of these estates’ names, Isole e Olena was born.
The current owner, Paolo de Marchi, took over in 1976. His enduring love towards the sangiovese grape of Tuscany earned him the name of “Mr. Sangiovese”. In 1980, Paolo crafted Isole e Olena’s flagship wine: Cepparello, which is made from 100% sangiovese. At that time, the Chianti Classico regulations didn’t allow its wines to be made solely from sangiovese, so he had to label Cepparello as simply “Vino da Tavola”. It was (and still is) one of the most renowned Super Tuscan wines.
Isole e Olena is found on the western side of the Chianti Classico area. The district benefits from cool breezes blowing in from the Mediterrranean Sea. Furthermore, the vineyards are 350-400 metres in altitude. As a result, Isole e Olena’s wines are not heavy. High in acidity, they manifest great delicacy and perfume.
Isole e Olena’s Chianti Classico is a perfect benchmark for this DOCG. The wine is matured for a year in large oak casks, with only a tiny proportion (5%) in small new barrels.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 19-Feb-2019)
The wine has a perfect ruby hue, with medium intensity of colour. On the nose, it opens up with a crunchy and round fruitiness. It’s dominated by red fruit notes of sour cherry, redcurrant and red plums. The ripeness is just perfect, balancing on a tightrope of freshness and succulence. A lovely spiciness complements the fleshy red fruit core: old bark, anise and liquorice. In the background, there is just a hint of toast and nutmeg. Good intensity (medium+) and balance.
On the palate, the body is medium – perhaps a touch fuller. A fresh high acidity perfectly balances the crunchy fruitiness. The red fruit notes echo the nose and prevail on the palate. The fruit is fleshy, rich, round and at the same time crispy. Hints of violet and Mediterranean spices (thyme, rosemary) underpin the fruit notes, along with savoury and delicately toasty accents. Medium to concentrated intensity, with a more than decent finish, followed by a savoury and earthy aftertaste.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.8/10
Riecine - Chianti Classico Riserva, 2015
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Classico DOCG, Riserva
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): Sangiovese
Average price: £25
The first records of Riecine go back to the 12th century. At that time, the Badia a Coltibuono monastery owned the vineyards. In 1971, an Englishman called John Dunkley bought 1.5 hectares of land from the monastery and officially founded Riecine as a wine estate. John was always a great admirer of the virtues of sangiovese over international grape varieties. He famously said “when Baron Philippe de Rothschild plants sangiovese, I’ll switch to cabernet sauvignon”.
In 2011, Riecine was bought by a family led by Lana Frank. Even though John Dunkley is not around anymore, Lana is determined to preserve his traditional philosophy which was based on a respect for the Tuscan terroir and a commitment to quality. Riecine is certified organic and it’s introducing biodynamic practices into their vineyards.
Riecine’s vineyards are located in Gaiole, one of the most praised communes within Chianti Classico. The altitude varies between 450 and 600 metres above sea level which confers a good acidity that supports the structure of Riecine’s wines. In particular, this “Riserva” red is made purely from sangiovese and aged 20 months in big casks before being released.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 04-Sep-2019)
In the glass, the wine has a perfect ruby hue that is medium in intensity. On the nose, it shows a good concentration of flavours (between medium+ and pronounced). In the attack there is an explosion of succulent red fruit: ripe plums, red cherry and raspberry. Hints of black olives and tapenade kick in, along with a spicy whiff of lavender and violet. The aromatic profile also features notes of juniper, dried herbs, rosemary, balsamic and liquorice. The toasty undertone is beautifully harmonised, as are the suggestions of earth and clay minerality.
On the palate, the body is medium to full (though closer to full). A good high acidity cuts the succulent fruity flavours and spicy intensity. As a result, the wine has a dense mouthfeel without being hefty. Warm on the palate (it has 14% abv after all) but never harsh. The ripe red fruit character is backed by spicy components matching the flavours on the nose. A lovely stalky note with hints of blackcurrant leaves linger in the mid-palate. The tannins are medium to high in level, a touch rustic but always smooth and pleasant. Overall the wine exhibits a good complexity and intensity. Very well put together, with a balanced lovely finish.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.8/10
Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli - Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, 2010
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Classico DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 92% Sangiovese, 8% Malvasia Nera and Colorino
Average price: £36
The history of the Mazzei family is practically the history of Chianti. The first recorded document to contain a reference to Chianti wine was written by Ser Lapo Mazzei in 1398. Today, Mazzei’s properties extend for 650 hectares – 117 of which are devoted to vineyards. The latter are divided into five areas: Fonterutoli, Siepi, Badiola, Belvedere and Caggio.
The vineyards are largely planted with sangiovese, using 36 carefully selected clones best suited to each district. Fonterutoli and Badiola, the higher areas, are suitable for clones giving aromas and elegance. Siepi and Belvedere sit at a lower altitude and are planted with clones that provide more structure and intensity.
The Medieval hamlet of Fonterutoli lies a few kilometres from Castellina del Chianti, in the heart of the Chianti Classico area. Here the Mazzei family have been producing wine since 1435. Castello di Fonterutoli still preserves an idyllic and tranquil character. Today, Filippo and Francesco (whose father, Lapo, died in August 2019) are the winemakers. They are devoted to an approach that combines innovation and tradition. Producing only vegan wines, all their processes are carried out by hand.
This Gran Selezione wine is Mazzei’s Grand Cru of Chianti Classico. The grapes for this wine come from the best of Mazzei’s 50 parcels. The wine is matured for 20 months in small French oak barrels (60% new) and 4 months in concrete tanks before being released.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 03-Nov-2018)
This wine has a perfect ruby hue of medium intensity in the glass. On the nose, the wine unfolds its focussed and intensely concentrated flavours. It starts with an exuberance of red fruit. Ripe notes of red cherry, raspberry and plums attest to an extremely succulent style. Also present are hints of black and resinated fruit with a warm and liqueur-infused cherry character coming through. An intensely spicy component releases notes of liquorice, terra rossa, anise, menthol, juniper and thyme. There’s a beautiful stalky note, with scents of tomato leaves, tobacco and black tea. Toasty and mocha coffee nuances are magnificently integrated. A really complex early-bouquet, concentrated, focussed and opulent. One word: intense.
On the palate, the high acidity soars, perfectly cutting the full body of this magnificent wine. Tannins are medium to high in level, extremely polished and velvety – even though they are rich and muscular in nature. A grand and sinewy structure. The utterly juicy and fleshy red fruit mingles with spicy notes of thyme, liquorice, anise and terra rossa. In the mid-palate, whiffs of earth, toast, clove, mocha coffee and dried red flowers. A lot of power and muscle but at the same time, great balance and a perfect integration of every aromatic layer. The flavours are intense, coalesced and precise. A really long lingering finish is just another mark of the outstanding quality of this Gran Selezione.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.1/10
Il Molino di Grace - Chianti Classico Gran Selezione "Il Margone", 2011
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Classico DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and classic
Grape(s): Sangiovese
Average price: £38
Il Molino di Grace sits next to the small village of Panzano, in the heart of the Chianti Classico region. The winery is named after a historical windmill (“mulino”) located inside the estate.
Molino di Grace’s owner is Frank Grace, an American from Ohio. While on holiday, Frank visited the place with his wife. They fell in love with this idyllic corner of Tuscany and in 1995 decided to buy the property and make wine there. Since then, Frank and his team have been consistently releasing award-winning wines.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 17-May-2018)
The beautiful garnet colour of this wine shines in the glass with medium intensity. To the nose, it opens up with a pronounced concentration, showing a wonderful early bouquet. Notes of ripe sour cherry, raspberry and red plums come through alongside a pleasant balsamic aroma. Earth, forest floor and a hint of game combine with secondary flavours of clove, toast and a touch of vanilla. The oak is magnificently integrated. There are even some hints of tertiary flavours (dried red berries, mushroom) showing the start of this wine’s beautiful evolution.
On the palate, the body is full and the mouthfeel dense and rich. A pleasant warmth expands gracefully throughout the palate, introducing aromas of ripe red fruit with toasty and earthy accents. The acidity is high and perfect in balancing the wine’s intensity. The tannins are high in level, silky and round – pure velvet in the mouth. The finish is long, dry and delicately smoky. An outstanding Chianti.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.2/10
Castello di Ama - Chianti Classico - Vigneto Bellavista, 1992
Country: Italy
Region/appellation: Tuscany - Chianti Classico DOCG
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 80% Sangiovese, 20% Malvasia Nera
Average price: £90
Ama is a small hamlet that has a long and deep-rooted history. It lends its name to this wine’s producer. The hamlet’s first records trace back to the 988 AD. In the 11th century, Ama was the beneficiary of several privileges granted by the Holy Roman Emperors: Henry VI and Otto IV. In a famous report of 1773, the Grand Duke Peter Leopold, Governor of Tuscany, described the region of Ama as “the most beautiful part in all of Chianti”. According to the Grand Duke, Ama’s vines were “well-situated, in full sun, beautifully tended, as if they were gardens”.
The Pallanti family has owned Castello di Ama since 1972. Over the years, Marco Pallanti and his wife Lorenza Sebasti have shaped the very name of Chianti Classico. Marco was the president of the Consortium for many years, striving to distinguish Chianti Classico from its competitors and raise the quality of the wines of the DOCG. The Pallanti family made the same painstaking efforts in the Castello di Ama’s vineyards. In the 1980s, vines were stripped and replanted with new rootstock and state-of-the-art trellising systems. Plots were carefully studied to select the best grape and clone for each particular microclimate.
Today Castello di Ama’s vineyards extend for approximately 37 hectares, 500 metres above sea level. Vigneto Bellavista, the wine presented, is a single-vineyard wine from clay-rich soils, aged in barrels, 50% of which is new French oak. The wine is only made in exceptional years. From 2013 onwards, the wine has been labelled as “Gran Selezione”.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 07-Oct-2018)
In the glass, the wine appears rich garnet of medium intensity. On the nose, it’s extremely concentrated and deep, with a marvelous perfume and refinement. The red and black fruit notes are still so vivid and alive despite it having considerable age! Red and black cherry, raspberry jam, blackberry and cassis with a touch of resinated fruit (prunes and black figs). A broad spicy undertone adds complexity: cedar box, bay leaves, dark chocolate, black tea, earth, dried leaves, white pepper, and a subtle balsamic component. There are also nuances of butterscotch, vanilla, nutmeg, carob tree…even furry and meaty notes. The bouquet is complex, intense and quite splendidly evolved.
On the palate, the wine is full in body with a perfect high acidity and sustained tannins. The latter are so smooth and round that the wine seems liquid velvet in the mouth. The flavour concentration is just terrific: red and black fruit notes (still alive and dancing) mingle with secondary aromas (charred wood, cedar box, clove, toast) and tertiary flavours (potpourri, dried flowers, black figs). A complex bouquet, incorporating hints of liquorice, tar, rosemary, old bark, black tea. A suggestion of roasted meat can be found in the long luxurious finish. This wine exhibits an extraordinary complexity and concentration. It has superbly evolved into a harmonious masterpiece. It feels like a godlike eternal nectar impervious to time and space!
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.3/10
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