The Chianti Series – Part 2: geography of the Chianti region, its grapes and appellations

The secrets of the Chianti region unveiled. Its geography, grape varieties (spoiler alert: sangiovese is the king!) and appellations. Decoding Chianti’s quality pyramid

Few regions embody the Italian dolce vita as clearly as the Chianti region in Tuscany. Gently undulating hills, a palpable glorious past and tasty meals. The perfect frame for one of Italy’s most distinctive wines.

Welcome to the second article of my series dedicated to the Chianti region. In the first part, I dealt with the history of Chianti, from the Middle Ages to the present day. Here, I will go through Chianti’s geography, its grapes and appellations.

Geography

The Chianti region lays in the heart of Tuscany, in the area broadly delimited by the cities of Florence, Siena and Pisa. Generally, the climate is continental, with cold winters and scorching summers. However some mitigating factors do exist. Most vineyards are located at the foot of the Apennines mountains, which have the effect of lowering the summer temperatures. In some districts, warm air currents are funnelled from coastal areas, making the winters less harsh than elsewhere.

Chianti stretches for 160 km from north to south – an area bigger than Bordeaux. Chianti is a diverse territory in terms of soil, temperatures, aspects and altitude. As a consequence, it’s difficult to pinpoint common characteristics in this extensive area. For example (forgive me for the geeky details), the two most widespread soils are galestro and alberese, although aspects of the terroir geology do vary. Galestro is prevalent in the northern part of the Chianti Classico area; it’s a mix of clay and marl schist which contributes to the body of its wines. Alberese soil is more widespread in the south of the region and it is a hard sandstone with good drainage capabilities. 

Altitude is probably the most defining factor for the Chianti region. Elevation varies between 150m and 600m, impacting the overall wine profile. Wines from higher elevation tend to be finer with a crisp acidity, as I described in this article.

The grapes of Chianti

Although I title this section in the plural, there is only one major grape of Chianti: sangiovese. This peculiar grape variety makes up the vast majority of any Chianti bottle (more details on blend requirements are covered later in this article when I deal with appellations).

Sangiovese (along with nebbiolo and aglianico) is one of Italy’s greatest native grape varieties. However, it’s a fussy grape to grow. Sangiovese is an early budding, late ripening variety; preferring warm spots, but not too hot – otherwise it loses all its interesting aromas. It doesn’t travel well (though some Australian and Californian producers are trying to prove the contrary) and it has a myriad of different clones (the Chianti Classico 2000 Project identified 239 of them). Something vintners must bear in mind is that each clone has its specific characteristics and compatibility with different environments. Sangiovese is very sensitive to terroir variations. Choosing the wrong clone for a terroir usually translates into insipid wines.

Sangiovese has a high level of both acidity and tannins, producing wines with a sleek and solid structure. The signature flavours of sangiovese are sour red cherry, plum, dried herbs, tea leaves accompanied by savoury notes. With age, sangiovese-based wines acquire more meaty and gamey aromas which are grounded by a pleasant earthiness. Sangiovese supports oak relatively well, the latter being used to soften tannins and add a kick of spicy flavours.

The Chianti appellations (all its declinations) allow the use of other black grape varieties. These serve a supporting role, softening the edges of sangiovese, giving extra nuances or deepening the colour. Almost 50 other grape varieties are permitted, but typical blending partners include:

• Canaiolo Nero: contributes fruity notes and a softer acidity
• Colorino: typically used to add more colour to the blend
• Ciliegiolo: brings freshness and lively notes, usually added to wines intended for early consumption
• Mammolo: a rare grape variety, with flower-scented aromas
• International varieties: mostly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah

Chianti appellations

Down to the more meaty (and often confusing) details about the Chianti region: its appellations. Technically there are two main distinctive denominations in the area: Chianti DOCG and Chianti Classico DOCG. Their regulations differ considerably and the major takeaway of this article should be how you can tell one from other. In practice, each of the two aforementioned DOCGs is split into different categories. Therefore, de facto the Chianti region is a conglomerate of different denominations and sub-zones that have the word “Chianti” somewhere in their names.

The Chianti appellations are organised as a pyramid with supposedly increasing levels of quality (and decreasing quantities of production). However, there are some caveats, as I will explain as we go through the different appellations. The five levels of the quality pyramid from the bottom to the top are the following: generic Chianti, Chianti sub-zones (all integrated into the Chianti DOCG, with the exception of Chianti Colli Senesi), Chianti Classico Annata, Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (the last three all within Chianti Classico DOCG). Let’s go through each of the aforementioned level and unveil their intricacies.

Generic Chianti

At the base of the pyramid we find the generic Chianti DOCG appellation. Bottles labelled simply as “Chianti”, without further descriptor or denomination name, fall under this category. For this generic DOCG, the grapes can be sourced from anywhere within the vast Chianti area. The fruit can be a blend of vineyards located in different areas, or from lower-quality plots. By law, generic Chianti must be released on March 1st of the year following the harvest – meaning 6 months of ageing are required.

Without going into too much tedious detail such as yield requirements or other nerdy facts, it is sufficient to say that generic Chianti has much less stringent regulations than any other appellation in the area. At least 70% of the blend must be sangiovese, with the remaining 30% coming from other black varieties, either local or international (see above).

Confusingly enough, Chianti Superiore is a denomination that also exists. The “Superiore” category is very similar to base Chianti DOCG except that it requires 9 months of ageing (instead of 6) and requires an additional 0.5% abv of alcohol content. It’s seldom used, so no big deal if you forget what Chianti Superiore is by the end of this article.

What can you expect from a base Chianti DOCG? At their best, these reds are tangy and crispy with simple red fruit aromas (sour cherry, plum, raspberry), a hint of dried herbs and savoury notes. They are meant for early consumption (one or two years after release) and display a moderate concentration of flavours. Unfortunately, a lot of basic Chianti spoil the reputation of the appellation. Often you can find a sea of these stringy and rustic wines in supermarkets. The aromas are usually less ripe and rather insipid. My advice?  Save your coppers and buy something from a superior appellation.

Chianti sub-zones

Things become more interesting as you step up to the second layer of the quality pyramid. Above the basic Chianti, the regulations recognise seven sub-zones: Chianti Rufina, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Montalbano and Chianti Montespertoli. Please note that from 1996 Chianti Classico became  a separate DOCG (see later) as opposed to a sub-zone.

The Chianti sub-zone appellations allow producers to state the name of the specific sub-zone on the label. Unsurprisingly, the grapes must be sourced from vineyards entirely belonging to the same sub-zone. Even though these wines are generally a step-up in quality, it’s otherwise rather difficult to define specific characteristics for each of the sub-zones. This is because the separation into sub-zones followed more political and administrative boundaries than common viticultural practices or a shared terroir.

That being said, some differences do exist among these districts. Please note that the following contains a certain degree of generalisation:

• Chianti Rufina is arguably the best and most refined of the seven sub-zones. The district sits east of Florence. Its vineyards are high in altitude and located in the northernmost corner of the Chianti region. Furthermore, a pass through the Apennines allow cool breezes to lower the temperatures. As a result, Chianti Rufina wines are never massive. They display grace and finesse, with floral aromas and a delicate bouquet. The top wines from this area are true gems, rivalling in quality the best Chianti Classico
• Chianti Colli Senesi is also a highly regarded appellation. As its name suggests, the sub-zone is located on the hills surrounding Siena, in the area of San Gimignano and Montalcino. Chianti Colli Senesi is the only sub-zone to be granted with its own DOCG. Its best wines display a good concentration, with many winemakers focusing on a fruity and freshly spicy style (thus avoiding oak usage)
• Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli: things get more blurry with these sub-zones. They lack distinctive features to tell one apart from the other. Also, they are quite difficult to find outside Italy. Generally speaking, these wines are lighter in body, less concentrated and more easy-going than either Chianti Classico or the two more prestigious Chianti sub-zones mentioned above 

Chianti Classico Annata

With the sole exception of top-level Chianti Rufina, this is the layer of the Chianti quality pyramid that could be tagged “serious wines begin here”. Declared as an autonomous DOCG in 1996, today Chianti Classico is considered more a brand than a denomination. The Chianti Classico Consortium (more on it in my previous article about the history of Chianti) has strived to make these wines a point of difference from the bland base Chianti wines famous in the 70s and 80s. A black rooster (more on its origin here) has become synonym of Chianti Classico and its Consortium. This effigy is depicted on the neck of each bottle.

Chianti Classico, as a wine region, is in the heartland of the Chianti zone. It extends for 7200 hectares (roughly half of the whole Chianti acreage), starting from Florence’s countryside in the north, stopping a few miles before Siena in the south. The Chianti Classico area encompasses the towns of Castellina, Gaiole, Greve, Radda, Poggibonsi and San Casciano Val di Pesa.

With regard to its climate, the central part of the Classico territory is higher in altitude and cooler, thus giving the wines more perfume and grace. The western side of the area benefits from Mediterranean influences and produce fuller wines than elsewhere in the Classico area.

The best Chianti Classico wines combine the power of sangiovese with perfume and finesse. Their typical aromas include red cherry, plums and violets with earthy and savoury accents. The flavours are more concentrated than basic Chianti, and colour wise they are darker. Good examples of Chianti Classico have great ageing potential, lasting up to 10-15 years. Their elegance doesn’t fade with age and is complemented by notes of earth, leather, game and tobacco.

Overall, good Chianti Classico wines are structured, featuring high level of tannins and acidity. They are angular, firm and snappy rather than big and powerful like other full-bodied New World reds (or some examples of their neighbour Brunello di Montalcino, produced by the same sangiovese grape).

Chianti Classico DOCG rules are more stringent than those for basic Chianti DOCG. For the Annata level (meaning the base layer of Chianti Classico), the laws require a minimum of 80% of sangiovese in the blend. The ageing requirement is 12 months. Often Chianti Classico wines are polished with oak, whose nature depends on the style. Traditionalists prefer the classical Slavonian botti (big barrels, often old), while modernists opt for French oak and smaller or newer barrels. The two approaches achieve different results (as I detailed here) but the use of oak will always  impart a spicy edge to the Chianti Classico wines.

Chianti Classico Riserva

Heading towards the top of the quality pyramid we find the Riserva appellation. This nomenclature is reserved for the Chianti Classico denomination only. Like the earlier quality level,  80% of the blend must be sangiovese. However, the ageing requirements are more stringent: the bottles cannot be released before they have been aged for 24 months – 3 of which must be in bottle.

The Riserva regulations don’t specify oak requirements. Therefore, whether the wine has to be matured in wood (and for how long) is completely down to the discretion of the winemaker. Most of the producers do however  use oak to some extent.

Chianti Classico Riserva wines are usually more concentrated and structured than Annata (base Chianti Classico). They are also usually more complex: the primary flavours mix with secondary aromas from wood and even tertiary flavours coming from the ageing process (see my article about flavours for the details on their differences).

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione

This represents the apex of the Chianti quality pyramid, the crème de la crème of wines which can only be found  within the Chianti Classico area. The Gran Selezione denomination was only created as recently as 2014, so there aren’t many vintages labelled this way yet.

The regulations for the Gran Selezione top-layer prescribe 30 months of ageing – 3 of which must be in bottle. The overall requirements are slightly more stringent than Riserva. In fact, some detractors would lament that the two highest appellations, Riserva and Gran Selezione, are in fact “too similar”.

Each Gran Selezione wine must be exclusively made using estate-grown grapes from the best vineyards owned by the producer. More often than not, winemakers craft their Gran Selezione as a single vineyard wine, but that is not explicitly required by the regulations. As I said in my previous article, perhaps the single vineyard option will make up for the lack of further information on the label about the terroir of origin. Some wine critics would have preferred a system in which you could label – for example – a wine as “Chianti Classico Gaiole” to indicate that the wine comes from the Gaiole commune, a terroir that normally produce refined Chianti with a soaring acidity. Alas, there is no such possibility (yet). Therefore consumers are expected to know the specific producer or vineyard to gauge a wine’s style – meaning that this knowledge is usually limited to wine experts (but hey, I’m here to help!).

Final thoughts – what’s next?

Be warned that there will be a third (and final) article in this series dedicated to the Chianti region! After all of these details about history, places and appellations, I will focus solely on wines. To illustrate what you can expect from this wine region, I will present some notable examples (tasting notes provided) of Chianti wines. These will be from different quality levels and exhibiting different characteristics.

Stay in touch, and in the meantime I hope you can enjoy a nice glass of Chianti paired with something exceptional!