Hamilton Russell Vineyards - Hemel-en-Aarde Chardonnay, 2017
The history of Hamilton Russell Vineyards began in 1975, when Tim Hamilton Russell bought 170 hectares of land in one of most southern and coldest districts of South Africa.
Today, his son Anthony runs the wine business. He registered Hamilton Russell Vineyards as an Estate, thus committing to work only with grapes grown on their plots. This is not the norm for South Africa. Most South-African winemakers buy grapes from several small producers – even those in different areas.
The philosophy of Hamilton Russell Vineyards is indeed closer to the Old World than to the New World. They narrowed down their production to only two grapes (pinot noir and chardonnay) and they focus on a pure expression of terroir. Anthony clearly states his aim: “we are not so much using Hamilton Russell Vineyards to make Pinot noir and Chardonnay as we are using Pinot noir and Chardonnay to express the beauty and personality of Hamilton Russell Vineyards”. It’s not a coincidence that their wines are often described as “Burgundian”: elegant, restrained, and complex.
This chardonnay has a pale lemon hue in the glass. On the nose, it reveals a pronounced yet refined intensity. It opens up with candied lemon curd, pear and a pleasant savoury accent. Followed by notes of acacia, honeysuckle, cardamon, white nectarine and kiwi. The aromas are delicately wrapped by a well-integrated toasty and nutty aura. Very complex and classy, with a tight mineral note lingering.
On the palate, the wine is medium to high in body, revealing a great texture. Ripe flavours of lemon, pear, quince and nectarine harmoniously combine with a smoky presence and a sweet-nutty accent. In the background, hints of nutmeg, baking spices, almond and even a touch of dairy aromas. A great dry minerality pleasantly cuts through the wine. The intense flavours are greatly balanced by a high acidity. Juicy, fresh, zesty but above all classy and perfectly balanced. The flavours are very precise and focused. In the very long finish all the different nuances coalesce splendidly. Great cellaring potential.