Domaine Billaud-Simon - Chablis Premier Cru "Montee de Tonnerre", 2007
Domaine Billaud Simon is one of the most established names of Chablis. The domaine history traces its origin back to 1815. Rooted in the centre of Chablis, the vineyards are located on both sides of the river Serein. Today, Domaine Billaud Simon extends over a 17 hectare area and produces wines spanning the full quality level spectrum: from Petit Chablis and Chablis (village appellation), to four Premier Crus and even a Grand Cru.
The wine below comes from Montee de Tonnerre, one of Chablis’ most highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards. The plot terroir, especially the high-quality Kimmeridgian soil, shares some similarities with the Chablis Grand Cru.
This chardonnay sees no oak at all – a common feature of most of the wines produced by Domaine Billaud Simon. This is a stylistic choice, aimed at producing crisp and mineral Chablis, with great elegance and purity. Nonetheless, these wines have great ageing capabilities – as this 2007 perfectly demonstrates.
Due to ageing, the wine is a beautiful light gold hue colour of medium intensity.
To the nose, it starts a bit closed but then reveals a clear yeasty character. Notes of bread dough, brioche and biscuits are very evident. The wine is reminiscent of a still Champagne! The yeasty profile combines with gentle hints of smoke and toast, along with nuances of white blossoms, ripe lemon and pear, and even a suggestion of nectarine. The stony minerality is really attractive – giving the bouquet a subtle and refined touch.
On the palate, the wine has a medium to full body, with good density. The acidity is just perfect: high, linear, crystalline. Perfectly cutting the ripe pear and grapefruit notes, with hints of nectarine and delicate toast wrapped in a yeasty character first found on the nose. Quite a long finish, fairly smoky.
Intensity of flavours is between medium+ and pronounced. Not a Grand Cru, but this wine makes up for it with huge class and great balance of all its constituents.