Alsace wine is described as the white wine for red wine lovers. Discover the secrets of this region that has a dual personality: half French, half German! As usual, tasting notes included
What does the proud and elegant France (characterful, romantic, sometimes bohemian in nature) have in common with the down-to-earth sturdy Germany (direct in spirit, highly organised, efficiency-oriented)? An abundance of predictable stereotypes? Or wine? This seems likely, when you look at Alsace.
Throughout its history, Alsace has been either German or French. As such, it may not be a surprise that Alsace has retained its character as a border province. Within Alsace exists a dual personality that affects everything. Alsatians boast loudly of their Frenchness but German influences are undeniable. Most Alsatians have a teutonic name and a French surname. The Alsatian dialect sounds far more German than French. While it is evident that markets, towns and architecture are German, the Alsatian’s flag and traditions strongly stem from France.
Since wine is a central part of both French and German cultures it naturally lends to the confluence that exists in Alsace. Alsatians make Germanic wine in the French way. In addition, the most widespread grape varieties such as the aromatic or semi-aromatic likes of riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, sylvaner are Germanic of origin. Unlike most French regions, wine here is varietally labelled. Alsace even borrows the characteristic tall flute-shaped wine bottles from its eastern neighbour.
Geography and climate
Alsace is a 190 km long and 50 km wide strip of land located in north-eastern France. It nestles between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine river (the natural border separating France from Germany) to the east. Although this region sits quite North in the boreal hemisphere (among French wine regions, only Champagne has a northerner latitude), Alsace climate is not as cold as you can imagine.
The Vosges Mountains shade the region from the temperamental western clouds. As a result, Alsace is the second driest place in France – a record surpassed only by Perpignan, which is located next to the far southern Spanish border.
Apart from Alsace’s northernmost part (called Bas-Rhin, where the mountains are lower and their protection limited), this region enjoys a relatively moderate climate. Dry and sunny autumns extend the mild growing season. This in turn has a great impact on viticulture. The berries can optimally ripen and achieve great sugar and aromatic concentration and allows for the production of the sought after late-harvest wines (see later).
Close to Strasbourg, Bas-Rhin, the north part of Alsace is less interesting from a viticultural viewpoint. However, you can still bump into a few exceptional producers (for example, Ostertag in Epfig). Down south lies the most alluring part of Alsace – the Haut-Rhin. Centered around the picturesque town of Colmar, this is really where Alsace wines shine.
Alsatian soil is so varied that it’s normally referred to as the “geologist dream”. This part of the continent had a tumultuous history throughout past eras. As a result, the soil composition can dramatically change even on a 100m scale.
Generally, the slopes along the Vosges are rich in marl, limestone and clay. The best vineyards are located there, especially on the east or south-east facing slopes of the numerous internal valleys. The more fertile alluvial plain is richer in sand. Less ideal for quality viticulture, this zone is suitable for lighter (and sparkling) wines.
Alsace wine appellations
Luckily, the Alsatian appellation system is much simpler than most French (and for what it’s worth most German) systems. In Alsace, there are only two Appellation Controlee (AC) for still dry wines: Alsace AC and Alsace Grand Cru AC. There is one appellation for sparkling wines which Crémant d’Alsace AC. While for sweet vines there are two additional appellations: Vendanges Tardives (VT) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (SGN).
The vast majority of Alsatian wine production falls under the Alsace AC umbrella. These wines are varietally labelled (meaning that the grape variety is indicated on the wine label – making life easier for consumers) and generally represent good value for money.
Alsace Grand Cru AC designates 51 vineyards to be of superior quality terroir. Wines from these appellations must be produced using only the so-called noble varieties (I will explain this further below) and represent 4% of overall wine production.
Since its creation in 1983, the Grand Cru appellation has been disputed. Some producers complained about the AC requirements, believing them to be too permissive which they lamented resulted in a lack of homogeneity in quality. These mavericks refused to label their top wines as Grand Cru, preferring alternative descriptions – such as “cuvee personnel” or “cuvee special”.
It is possible to find some dry still white Alsatian wines labelled as edelzwicker or gentil. Subtle differences exist between edelzwicker and gentil and both terms indicate white blends outside the classical AC system. Local regulations impose some restrictions on gentil wines, whereas edelzwicker allow much more freedom in the blending. These white blends encompass wines which range widely in style: some are easy-going and unpretentious, while others are serious and complex wines (for example those by Marcel Deiss – here a couple of examples).
Crémant d’Alsace, the appellation for sparkling wines, is common throughout the entire region. These fizzy wines are made using the traditional method and are usually a blend of riesling and pinot blanc. The best can rival their Loire or Burgundy counterparts.
Wines with the Vendanges Tardives (VT) (literally meaning “late harvest”) and Sélection de grains nobles (SGN) appellations can be only made from one of the noble varieties. By law, both ACs require a minimum level of sugar levels in the harvested grapes.
In theory, VT wines can range from dry to medium-sweet, but in practice, the latter is the norm. These wines are usually produced using passerillage (grapes are left on the vines till late in the season to shrivel and concentrate sugar and aromas) and sometimes the help of noble rot.
SGN are authentic rarities – and the best ones are expensive. As its name suggests, SGN wines are made with individually selected ripe berries, harvested by hand late in the season. Typically several passages (or picking trips) through the vineyards are needed to pick the berries with the desired level of ripeness. This makes the production of these coveted nectars even more labour intensive (hence their high prices). Botrytis (also known as noble rot) always contribute to the SGN’s richness and aromatic profile. By regulation SGN wines require even more sugar in the grape must than VT. As such, SGN wines are always sweet, with the best balanced by a soaring acidity. My article Alsace wine: icons, oddities, rarities contains a tasting note of a riesling SGN by Hugel.
What do VT and SGN wines taste like? They are intensely aromatic, with a huge concentration of flavours. The fruit veers toward tropical stone fruit such as tinned peach, dried apricot and mango. Honey and marmalade flavours are also common. Then there is the noble rot (for some VT and all SGN), that brings notes of rye bread, mushroom, beeswax, ginger. My taste buds are salivating!
What are the Alsatian noble grape varieties?
There are four: riesling, gewurztraminer, muscat, and pinot gris. They are all aromatic (however, pinot gris is more semi-aromatic), and as we have just seen they occupy a special position in the region appellation system.
Riesling is definitely the King among the four Noble grapes, and is the most planted variety in Alsace. The best Alsatian rieslings defy contradictions.They are both strong and gentle, flowery and structured, steely but with a rich ripe fruitiness. Generally these rieslings are medium to full in body, with a firm high acidity, and a decisive flinty minerality that at times tingles your taste buds in pure pleasure. The primary aromas vary from lime and grapefruit to nectarine and yellow peach. Rieslings have great aging potential, developing honeyed and toasty notes as they get older.
Gewurztraminer is pungent and aromatically spicy (its German name literally means “spicy traminer”), yet dry and clean. The dryness of Alsatian gewurztraminer is a point of difference to its German counterparts which usually retain some residual sugar. Gewurtztraminer is quite oily in texture and really perfumed – with notes of lychees, rose, ginger and pink grapefruit. A liquified turkish delight, they are inebriating wines that you don’t easily forget.
Pinot gris has a rich texture and full body; it’s less aromatic than Gewurztraminer, but with a more balanced acidity. Really splendid and versatile with food (I believe it’s the perfect pairing for the rich pork dishes of Alsace), it’s smoky, musky, sometimes even exotic.
Muscat (alas the least widespread of the four noble varieties) is intensely aromatic, with vivid notes of orange blossom, rose and grape. The Alsatian muscats are dry and clean, light to medium in body and are perfect as an aperitif – or served alongside the local earthy asparagus in spring!
Apart from the noble four, Alsace hosts a number of less common grape varieties; I believe sylvaner is the most interesting of them. It’s less intensely aromatic than the aforementioned quartet. But when planted with care, Sylvaner results in refreshing and clean whites, with pungent earthy and herbal notes. Sylvaner is doing so well that it’s overcoming its past poor reputation as a table white and making its way to becoming a noble variety.
Pinot blanc, auxerrois and chasselas are other white grape varieties that produce refreshing wines but they are more neutral in character. They can be vinified as blends or single-varietal wines.
The only black grape variety planted in Alsace is pinot noir. In general, Alsatian pinot noir is light and fruity, without the weight and concentration that make their Burgundian analogues so appealing.
A few words about winemaking in Alsace
This wine region favours aromatic varieties, therefore winemakers focus on retaining the original flavours of the grape. Insert vessels are in most cases the designated choice for fermentation and maturation: either stainless steel vats or large barrels called foudres (which are generally so old that they don’t impart any flavour to the liquid within). Malolactic fermentation is not encouraged as this would mask the pure original fruit flavours of the grape. (more details on winemaking here)
With the exception of VT and SGN, traditionally Alsatian wines are bone-dry and firm – as opposed to the Germanic habit of producing feather-light wines with some residual sugar. Recently this tendency has somehow inverted its course – at least in part. An increasing number of Alsatian vintners are crafting lighter styles of wine, with a touch of sweetness. On the other hand, Germans are starting to roll out sturdier and drier wines. Even more evidence that the fates of the two countries – France and Germany – are beautifully interwoven in Alsace.
Final thoughts
A little confession. I was once one of those red-wine-only guys! I used to think that the only truly interesting wines were red and that whites were rather boring. Then I started to seriously study wine. As I tasted more and more wines, I gradually started to change my mind, though my preference to reds is still undeniable.
I visited Alsace in 2016. For me, it was a revelation. Alsace is often described as the “white wine region for red wine lovers”. It’s absolutely true. In Alsace I discovered that whites wines can be as complex, rich and interesting as the best reds.
Before leaving you (for now), some tasting notes…
NOTE: If you enjoyed this article about Alsace, and you are eager to discover some exceptional wines produced in the region, read Alsace wine: icons, oddities, rarities for more tasting notes!
Domaine Weinbach - Muscat Reserve, 2015
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Aromatic and Floral
Grape(s): Muscat ottonel, Muscat blanc a petits grains
Average price: £26
Domaine Weinbach was founded by Capuchin monks in 1612. The estate house is surrounded by the famous Clos du Capucin, the historical monastic vineyard whose name also appears on all Weinbach’s wine labels.
Domaine Weinbach lies just outside the small village of Kaysersberg. Their mansion is painfully difficult to locate, even with a GPS. When asked why they didn’t make the location easier to find, their young winemaker smiled at me and replied: “It’s good to struggle to find beautiful things – that increases their value”. After tasting their wines, I couldn’t disagree.
The Faller family acquired the estate in 1898 and since then have been consistently producing excellent wines. They farm their vineyards organically, carefully hand-picking grapes and following the traditional Alsatian approach. Domaine Weinbach was among the first producers in Alsace to be certified biodynamic.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 22-Nov-0016)
The wine shines in a straw-yellow hue, pale in intensity. To the nose, this muscat opens up with a lively and delicate aroma. Crunchy notes of citrus and lime mingle with rosewater, jasmine and orange blossom chased by juicy nectarine notes. The lovely aromatic profile is supported by an underlying granite minerality.
To the palate, the wine is full body but never heavy. A fantastic mineral and pungent acidity counterbalances the rich and crunchy aromas. Flavours of ripe citrus, nectarine, rose petals with hints of burned matches. The sharp precision of flavours is framed by a lovely smoky-and-stone minerality. Lovely bone dry finish. Good ripeness, elegant, refreshing and lively. Great balance overall.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.6/10
Domaine Ostertag - Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner, 2015
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Aromatic and Floral
Grape(s): Sylvaner
Average price: £22
Ostertag’s history began in 1966, with just three hectares of land. After studying in Burgundy, the second generation winemaker André Ostertag returned to Epfig and took the reins of the estate. Today the domaine owns 15 hectares that are split into 88 parcels poetically referred to as “gardens” (les jardins).
At the beginning of André Ostertag’s career, he gained a reputation as a maverick as he didn’t conform to established rules and traditions. Now he’s considered a pioneer and he is one of Alsace’s most respected wine producers. André Ostertag is an ardent environmentalist and firmly believes in a natural winemaking approach. His wines have been biodynamic since 1998. He chooses to manual harvest and refuses to use heavy machinery in his fields.
I visited Domaine Ostertag in November 2016. Their headquarter in Epfig pleasantly combines modernism and art and this is reflected in their wines and packaging. All the wine labels are drawn by Christine Colin, André‘s partner. Christine’s works are defined by a plastic abstract beauty – perfectly mirroring what’s inside the bottles.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 23-Nov-2016)
The wine shines with a pale lemony hue in the glass. To the nose, it reveals a subtle and refined aromatic profile. Crunchy red apple, fresh lime and citrus flavours intercross a lovely green and flower note – fern, peach flowers, white pepper. These are precise and elegant aromas.
On the palate, the mouthfeel is both rich and slender, assertive and sleek. High in acidity. Medium in body. The extraordinarily refined nuances mirror the nose. Flavours are wrapped by a lovely gravel minerality. A touch of savoury undertones almost suggests a tannic presence. Racy tension combines with the elegance and juiciness in this wine. While a pleasant elegant finish tingles the mouth with minerality.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.7/10
Famille Hugel - Pinot Gris Hommage a Jean Hugel, 1998
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): Pinot gris
Average price: £48
Maison Hugel is part of the history of Alsace. It was founded in 1639 and since then it’s continually expanding. The wine estate owns 25 hectares of vineyard, as well as being a négociant – buying grapes from some 300 local growers. Today Hugel is one of the main ambassadors of Alsace in the wine world.
Maison Hugel is based in the picturesque town of Riquewihr. If you happen to visit this village, make sure you pay a visit to their shop. It’s difficult to miss, being on the main road of Riquewihr. You can sample a vast array of Hugel exquisite wines there, for free!
Over the years, Hugel has featured a consistent style. Most of their wines are rich and opulent, as opposed to some more restrained expressions (Zind-Humbrecht and Trimbach for example). The current winemaker is the skilled Marc Hugel. Apparently knowing every inch of the family vineyards, Marc’s approach is sustainable and biological. He focuses on low-yield, minimal intervention and traditional practices.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 21-Nov-2016)
The wine has a rich golden hue, deep in intensity. To the nose, this pinot gris is rich, opulent and ripe. Baked quince, fresh fig, apricot and pineapple notes give way to plushy floral notes (jasmine and acacia flowers) which are then followed by nuances of golden raisins and honey. There is also a suggestion of botrytis aroma here, like sweet marmalade and moulded musk.
On the palate, the mouthfeel is rich and the body full. Mellow and juicy, dense and pulpy, the wine texture evokes numerous tactile sensations. Its sweet presence is balanced by the on-point linear acidity. There is a really intriguing balance among the notes of ripe grapefruit, stone fruit, raisins and honey. The long finish is hauntingly aromatic.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.8/10
Zind-Humbrecht - Gewurztraminer Roche Calcaire, 2014
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Aromatic and Floral
Grape(s): Gewurztraminer
Average price: £28
Practically an institution in Alsace, the Humbrecht family trace their origins back to The Thirty Years War of 1620. In 1959 they created Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and are currently based in Turckheim, a small village just 7 km west of Colmar.
The domain’s winemaker today is Olivier Humbrecht MW, who was the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine. Olivier is a champion of biodynamic winemaking and a sort of superstar among winemakers. He firmly believes that biodynamic (preserving vine and soil life) can ensure the proper expression of terroir.
2014 was not a good year for Zind-Humbrecht. Some of their vineyards were badly affected by fruit flies. As a result, in some places they lost as much as 50% of their crop. Some of the Grand Cru vineyards (Windsbuhl, Hengst and Goldert) were therefore declassified into this cuvee. “Roche Calcaire” is technically an Alsace AC, but much closer to Grand Cru in quality level.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 22-Nov-2016)
The wine is bright gold yellow in the glass. To the nose, it’s intense in flavours, elegant and feminine. Perfumed note of apricots, lychee, honey, raisins and ripe cantaloupe melon are chased by a subtle floral presence of rose petals. Mandarin skin, candied citrus and marmalade complete the scented aromatic profile.
On the palate, the wine is medium-sweet. Thanks to an unusual high acidity for this grape (Gewurztraminer is notoriously low in acidity), this wine exhibits great tension and precision. The palate mirrors the perfumed nose, with stone fruit and a live zestiness more evident in the mid-palate. Honey and baking spices layers wrap the intense fruitiness. Overall, the wine is perfumed but rather restrained. It is precise and racy with an elegant long finish.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.0/10
Famille Hugel - Riesling Estate, 2014
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): Riesling
Average price: £23
Maison Hugel is part of the history of Alsace. It was founded in 1639 and since then it’s continually expanding. The wine estate owns 25 hectares of vineyard, as well as being a négociant – buying grapes from some 300 local growers. Today Hugel is one of the main ambassadors of Alsace in the wine world.
Maison Hugel is based in the picturesque town of Riquewihr. If you happen to visit this village, make sure you pay a visit to their shop. It’s difficult to miss, being on the main road of Riquewihr. You can sample a vast array of Hugel exquisite wines there, for free!
This Estate Riesling is a perfect example of a good Alsace AC wine. Here, Hugel uses grapes sourced from different parcels in Riquewihr located in and around the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 04-Nov-2018)
This wine has a pale lemony hue in the glass. To the nose, it reveals good ripeness and breadth. Medium+ in intensity, it opens up with grapefruit and yellow peach, along with hints of rye bread, banana, green musk and dried grass. A hint of sweet kerosene reveals we are in Alsace.
To the palate, this riesling is medium to full in body with a pleasant and linear high acidity. Zesty, fresh, with good fruit ripeness. Grapefruit, stone fruit, honeysuckle and mushroom mingle in the mouth, revealing a good balance between primary aromas and a nice slate minerality. Moderate complexity; medium+ both in intensity and finish.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.5/10
Albert Boxler - Riesling Sommerberg "E", 2013
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace Grand Cru AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): Riesling
Average price: £58
This domain is based in Niedermorschwihr, another typical beautiful Alsatian town not far from Colmar. The Boxler vineyard holdings include 14 hectares and are centred on the imposing granite hillside of the Sommerberg Grand Cru, where some of their best wines (including this one) are from.
The Boxler family moved to Alsace from Switzerland in 1673. Albert Boxler, whose name this estate bears, returned to his region of origin in 1946, after World War II. His talented son Jean now runs the family business. Jean Boxler adopts a traditional winemaking approach, such as vinifying micro-parcels within his crus separately, or using old foudres to mature his wines.
The Boxlers use a code on each wine label to distinguish between the different vineyard parcels from which these grapes are sourced. For this riesling, “E” represents Eckberg, a lieu-dit within the Sommerberg Grand Cru.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 24-Sep-2017)
The wine appears pale, bright and lemon-hued in the glass. On the nose, this riesling reveals what the best Alsace is all about. The flavours are both intense and focused, complex yet elusive. Ripe kumquats and juicy nectarine, along with a touch of crisp mature apple, pave the way to suggestions of white flowers, honeysuckle, porcini mushroom and even a hint of petrol-like aromas.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full in body, very mineral, rich and precise like a sharp knife. Ripe grapefruit, zesty citrus and stone fruit in the attack, then pungent herbs and some savoury nuances. All encased with a striking flinty minerality. The acidity is soaring and sublimely crystalline, perfectly cutting through the wine’s complex flavours. Overall this great riesling shows intense aromas and a long, pervasive finish. Punchy and precise, concentrated, aromatic and lively.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.5/10
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