Iconic Alsatian wine. Six tasting notes of Alsatian masterpieces. Complex field blends, exceptional rieslings, a golden Gewurztraminer and more…
When I wrote my article about Alsace wine, my original idea was to include a few tasting notes to explain the different wine styles you can find in the area (as I did for other wine regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy). However, I soon realised I had a huge number of tasting notes; both from my journey to Alsace in 2016 and subsequent tastings in London.
By that point, the article was already long and I didn’t feel comfortable to stretch it even further by adding a plethora of tasting notes. In blogging (like in life) compromises had to be made. As such, I made the difficult decision to limit my tasting notes to only six. Those tasting notes focused on the more widespread varietals in the Alsace wine spectrum.
But straight after publishing my article, I had this itch. I had excluded from my original article some of the most amazing whites I have ever tasted. I felt I was not giving enough justice to Alsace wine. Hence my decision to write a second article about the Alsace region – its predominant focus being those tasting notes that didn’t find space in my first article.
Icons, oddities, rarities
I pondered what I should I call the new article. I finally opted for icons, oddities, rarities. A slightly provocative title perhaps but I do feel it aptly describes the nature of the wines presented in my new post. In some sense, these wines are outside the “classical” Alsatian wine offering. However, I promise you, they are true gems, untold masterpieces that encapsulate the complexity of the best fine wine regions.
In this article, you will find:
- An elegant pinot blanc – yes, in Alsace even this grape variety can shine!
- A couple of excellent “field blends”, made by the idiosyncratic Marcel Deiss
- Probably one of the best rieslings in the entire world (no exaggeration!!!)
- A Gewurztraminer so intense that it will blow your mind; and
- A sweet nectar that will give you glimpses of paradise
Without further ado, I will bring to the stage the main characters of this article: Alsace wines – the icons, the oddities (in a good way), the rarities. Enjoy!
Domaine Weinbach - Pinot Blanc Reserve, 2015
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): 70% Auxerrois, 30% Pinot Blanc
Average price: £20
Domaine Weinbach was founded by Capuchin monks in 1612. The estate house is surrounded by the famous Clos du Capucin, the historical monastic vineyard whose name also appears on all Weinbach’s wine labels.
The Faller family acquired the estate in 1898. They farm their vineyards organically, carefully hand-picking grapes and follow the traditional Alsatian approach. Domaine Weinbach was among the first producers in Alsace to be certified biodynamic.
This wine demonstrates how in Alsace more “modest” grape varieties (when handled properly) are capable of producing very good wines. Even though this wine is labelled as “Pinot blanc” it is actually a blend made up by auxerrois and pinot blanc. The former provides body and structure, the latter a lovely crispness.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 22-Nov-2016)
Straw-yellow in the glass, on the nose it appears well-balanced, opening up with crispy pear and apple notes combining with white melon nuances. A lovely floral presence (white rose and orange blossom) complements the delicate aromatic profile. On the palate, it’s dry and fresh in the attack thanks to a fabulous acidity. Fragrant and delicately spicy, with lemon and white pear notes; there are also subtle whiffs of honey and dried herbs. Precise and refined, it’s medium-bodied with a satisfying mouthfeel and a lovely finish. Elegance from start to finish.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.5/10
Domaine Marcel Deiss - Burg, 2011
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): Field blend (13 grapes, dominant are: Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Riesling, black and white Muscat, Pinot Gris)
Average price: £36
The Deiss family has been growing grapes since 1744, although the current Domain was founded in 1947 by Marcel Deiss after returning from the Second World War. Based in Bergheim, a lovely town 17 km north of Colmar, Domaine Marcel Deiss today owns 26 hectares of vineyards. The estate is run by Marcel Deiss’ grandson, Jean-Michel Deiss. With the help of the respected oenologist Marie-Hélène Cristofaro, the Deiss family today produces without doubt some of the most interesting wines in Alsace (and in France).
Jean-Michel Deiss is a striking personality in the wine world. He has been labelled as a maverick or rebel. From Jean-Michel’s perspective, he advocates a return to origin: his aim is to make wine in the same manner as the original Alsatians. Single varietal wines are a (relatively) modern phenomenon assures Deiss.
His most famous wines are labelled as “Vins de Terroirs”. They are field blends from ten or more different grape varieties from a single vineyard. Whites of impressive characters, these wines are (in Deiss’ vision) the purest expression of terroir. The “Vins de Terroirs” (like the “Burg” presented) are labelled as “Cru d’Alsace” because Alsace Grand Cru appellation rules only allow selected varietals.
Burg is the name of a vineyard not too far from the Altenberg Grand Cru, north-west of Bergheim. The vineyard enjoys a southern exposure. Its soil is rich in marl and limestone.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 24-Nov-2016)
Appearing a brilliant pale lemon-hue in the glass, to the nose it’s immediately vibrant, intense and concentrated. Notes of ripe pear mingle with stone fruit and even a touch of red wild berries – such as raspberry and currant. Ethereal floral accents (iris and rose) and a touch of mushroom surround the primary fruit flavours. A shimmering saline minerality (with aromas of wet rocks, seaweed, flint) wraps everything together.
On the palate, this wine confirms the impression gained from the nose. It’s full-bodied, complex, intense with a huge sturdy elegance. Thanks to concentrated flavours and a perfect high acidity, it is structured and has barely detectable residual sugar. Nuances of pear and ripe grapefruit mark the attack, which then give way to succulent stone fruit, mushrooms, iris, dried herbs and tar-like notes. The wine is pervaded by a majestic and marked minerality – tingling and enlivening your taste buds in pure delight. Massive, intense it is also captivating and full of energy. A wine of huge presence and personality. Long mineral finish. This white will age splendidly.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.5/10
Domaine Marcel Deiss - Altenberg de Bergheim, 2011
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace Grand Cru AC
Wine style: Dry white - Aromatic and Floral
Grape(s): Field blend (13 grapes, dominant are: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris; also: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, black and white Muscat, Muscat à Petit Grain, Chasselas)
Average price: £65
Domaine Marcel Deiss was founded in 1947 by Marcel Deiss after returning from the Second World War. Today, the estate is run by Marcel Deiss’ grandson, Jean-Michel Deiss.
Jean-Michel Deiss is a striking personality in the wine world. He has been labelled as a maverick or rebel. From Jean-Michel’s perspective, he advocates a return to origin: his aim is to make wine in the same manner as the original Alsatians. Single varietal wines are a (relatively) modern phenomenon assures Deiss.
Domaine Marcel Deiss produces a wide array of wines, grouped into three categories: “Vins de Fruits”, “Vins de Terroirs” and “Vins de Temps”. Their most interesting (and famous) category is “Vins de Terroirs”. Deiss believes these wines convey the true sense of terroir in Alsace.
Altenberg de Bergheim is a revered Alsace Grand Cru situated 17km north of the commune of Colmar. It is very close to the medieval village of Bergheim – Deiss’ headquarters. Altenberg de Bergheim is one of the few exceptions in the Grand Cru appellations where producers are allowed to blend several grape varieties into their wine. In fact, it was the Deiss family that petitioned for this modification in the Grand Cru appellation rules.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 24-Nov-2016)
The wine shines a rich gold hue in the glass. On the nose, it is all at once spectacularly intense, concentrated, complex and elegant. In the attack, ripe peach and candied lemon bits merge with tropical notes of lychee and honey mango. Nuances of sage, acacia, dried sultanas can also be detected. In the secondary wave, an intriguing floral note kicks in, mostly orange blossom and lilies. Scents of marzipan, gingerbread, honey reveal the presence of botrytis.
On the palate, this exceptional wine opens up with a melody of elegance and concentration. Stone fruit, raisins and lychee notes intertwine with liquid honey, marzipan and baked quince. A floral perfume adds an inebriating sensation, while at the edges, bolts of flinty minerality are found.
Exceptional wines like this defy contradictions. This wine is both intense and delicate, full-bodied and dense but also pervaded by an impossible silkiness and refinement. The acidity is high, just on-point, making this Alsace Grand Cru alive. Extremely long and elegant finish. A vinous masterpiece.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.7/10
Maison Trimbach - Riesling Clos Sainte Hune, 2011
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace Grand Cru AC
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): Riesling
Average price: £165
Trimbach’s origins date back to 1626, making it one of the oldest wineries in Alsace. Throughout its long history, Maison Trimbach has remained a family business. Today the estate is run by Trimbach’s 12th and 13th generations of winemakers!
Trimbach’s operations are now based in Ribeauville, north-west of Colmar. The family owns 40 hectares across six different villages.
Trimbach is famous for its phenomenal, dry steely rieslings which have an immense minerality and purity of flavour. Trimbach’s style can be defined by two words: tension and restraint. To quote Hubert Trimbach, their aim is to craft wines that are “concentrated not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous”.
The pinnacle of Trimbach’s production, Clos Sainte Hune is a single-vineyard riesling, whose fruit is sourced from its namesake plot just outside Hunawihr. Clos Sainte Hune is widely considered one of the finest expressions of riesling in Alsace – and probably the world!
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 04-Jul-2017)
In the glass, the wine appears pale with a brilliant lemon-straw hue. To the nose, it suddenly unveils its huge complexity. The nose is ripe and multi-layered. It opens with lime, tangerine peel and apple, then riper aromas emerge. Stone fruit, hints of tropical flavours (passion fruit, banana) and even some dried fruit. There is also an elegant yet marked floral presence, such as orange blossom and white flowers. Suggestions of petrol-like aromas and honey reveal the start of an evolution. The multitude of nuanced flavours come and go, in a kaleidoscope of vibrant and aromatic suggestions. They reveal their ineffable presence, just to give way to the next scent in the complex aromatic profile. One word. Intriguing.
To the palate, the wine is rich with a powerful yet elegant silky mouthfeel. Full in body, with a high acidity that you can only describe as perfect. The polychromatic aromatic profile is faithful to the nose. Ripe apple, tangerine, gooseberry, stone fruit, hints of tropical fruit mingle with a chalky and flinty minerality – almost salty as it progresses. Hints of toast and breadcrumb percolate in the mid-palate. Suggestions of kerosene and honeyed dried fruit indicate an early development in the bottle. Powerful yet nuanced and refined, with a long mineral finish. This wine almost feels that it could linger in your mouth forever! Huge complexity. A true work of art.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.8/10
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht - Gewurztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain, 2013
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace Grand Cru AC
Wine style: Dry white - Aromatic and Floral
Grape(s): Gewurztraminer
Average price: £76
The Humbrecht family trace their origins back to the Thirty Years War of 1620. In 1959 they created Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and are currently based in Turckheim, a small village just 7 km west of Colmar. Today, the domaine owns 40 hectares spread across five different villages.
The estate’s winemaker is Olivier Humbrecht MW, who was the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine. Olivier, a champion of biodynamic winemaking, is a sort of superstar among winemakers. He firmly believes that biodynamic winemaking (preserving vine and soil life) is the only way to ensure the authentic expression of terroir.
The Rangen de Thann is the most southerly of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. This plot lies at the exit of the valley, overlooking the village of Thann. Here the river “Thur” flows at the foot of the slope where the vineyard is located.
Since the Middle Ages Rangen de Thann has been renowned for producing excellent wines. In 1580, the philosopher Michel de Montaigne visited the district. He admired it so much that he gave the following description:
“Thann 4 leagues. First town in Germany, subject to the emperor, very fine, wide plain flanked on the left hand side with hillsides covered in vines, the finest and the best cultivated and so extensive that the Gascons who were there said they had never seen so many in succession.”
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 02-Mar-2018)
The wine has a wonderful goldish copper hue in the glass, with medium intensity of colour. To the nose, the endless intensity and aromaticity is immediately evident. Rich and deep but never hefty. A marked scent of rose water and lychee hits the nose in the attack, followed by notes of ripe pink grapefruit, turkish delight, ginger and a mix of mango and fleshy apricots. There are suggestions of cardamom, oriental spices, smoke, minerality and even ash that adds even more complexity. The nose is mesmerizing. Impressive.
To the palate, the wine is very full in body. It coats your mouth with a delicate viscosity. Despite being immensely rich and dense, there is a limpid acidity that lifts the wine splendidly, making it surprisingly alive. The flavours are intensely concentrated, yet the aromas are still nuanced. Opening with apricot skin and lychees it is then followed by hints of rose petal, ginger and nutmeg while fragrances of peach pulp and dried mango linger.
In the middle palate, scents of cardamon and ripe tangerine can be found. There is just a touch of residual sugar in the entrance but this dissolves beautifully in the progression. A smoky and flinty minerality encases the complex and intense flavours. A wonderfully long and satisfying finish. Superb! If you could only have a single Gewurztraminer in your entire life, this should be it.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.7/10
Famille Hugel - Riesling Selection de Grains Nobles, 2010
Country: France
Region/appellation: Alsace - Alsace Selection de Grains Nobles
Wine style: Sweet white - Lush and Balanced
Grape(s): Riesling
Average price: £110
Maison Hugel is part of the history of Alsace. It was founded in 1639 and since then it continues to expand. The wine estate owns 25 hectares of vineyard, as well as being a négociant – buying grapes from some 300 local growers. Today Hugel is one of the main ambassadors of Alsace in the wine world.
Maison Hugel is based in the picturesque town of Riquewihr. If you happen to visit this village, make sure you pay a visit to their shop. It’s difficult to miss, being on the main road of Riquewihr. There you can sample a vast array of Hugel’s exquisite wines for free!
Over the years, Hugel has featured a consistent style. Most of their wines are rich and opulent, as opposed to some more restrained expressions (Trimbach for example). The current winemaker is the skilled Marc Hugel. Apparently knowing every inch of the family vineyards, Marc’s approach is sustainable and biological. He focuses on low-yield, minimal intervention and traditional practices.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 04-Nov-2018)
The wine shines a rich gold hue in the glass, with a medium to deep colour intensity. To the nose, this wine shows pronounced and profound flavours. There is a richness and breadth that combines with a fantastic alive sensation. Ripe apricot, tinned peach, dried mango and gold sultanas mix with honey, white blossom notes, honeysuckle, ginger, and earl grey tea. In spite of its contradictions, this wine exudes both opulence and freshness.
On the palate, the wine is full in body, exceptionally rich, deep, concentrated and packed with intense aromas. The flavours are impressively intense, but also very sharp and precise. The purity of the ripe fruit is outstanding and then there is that thunderstorm of an acidity. It traverses your mouth like a bolt of pure pleasure, perfectly balancing the intense sweetness and the luscious richness of flavours. The clear granite minerality emerges like pure crystal. Despite my best efforts, words fail to describe this fantastic nectar which is an authentic powerful explosion of decadence and pleasure.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.7/10
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