Donnafugata - Sul Vulcano Etna Rosso, 2016
Donnafugata estate was founded by the Rallo family in 1983 but this Sicilian family has been making wine since the mid-nineteenth century. In a period where bulk wine exportation was the norm, Donnafugata was one of the first winemakers to start a culture of high-quality wine on the island.
Today, Donnafugata owns a total of 405 hectares over five estates situated in different districts in Sicily. They export a broad range of wines to 60 countries using 20 different grape varieties.
The name Donnafugata means “fleeing woman”. It is a reference to Queen Maria Carlonia, who escaped the court of Naples in the early 19th century with her husband, Ferdinand IV of Bourbon after the arrival of Napoleon’s troops. The couple took refuge at a site which is today one of Donnafugata’s vineyards. The name Donnafugata also appears in the famous “Gattopardo” (The Leopard) novel by Tomasi di Lampedusa.
Donnafugata’s logo consists of the head of a woman with windblown hair. The trademark appears on every bottle of Donnafugata’s wine. All the labels feature artworks by Gabriella Rallo. In her art, she portrays feminine figures immersed in a dream-like and serene atmosphere.
The wine appears light ruby, almost garnet-like, in the glass. To the nose, this red has pronounced intensity of flavours both fragrant and aromatic. A rich and intense fruitiness combines with layers of spices, exhibiting a superb elegance. Wild red cherry, strawberry and red currant notes give way to the spicy undertones of earth, undergrowth, and musk. There are also reminiscences of violets and rose with a touch of black pepper. Oak is used with parsimony. The wood integration is seamless, revealing hints of nutmeg, cinnamon and a subtle toastiness around the edges. A discreet presence of herbal spices is also noticeable – sage, rosemary, mediterranean shrubs.
On the palate, the wine is intense in flavours, with medium body and a perfect high acidity that makes the wine lively and crisp. A zesty elegance traverses the palate from start to end. The red fruit aromas are slick, crunchy and juicy. The tannins (medium+ in level) are ripe, silky and fine-grained. A refined spiciness merges with hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, juniper, earth, and a nuanced toastiness. A flinty minerality lifts the whole aromatic profile; a characteristic common to the best wines from Etna. Long earthy finish, terminating with a savoury dry note. Overall this is a fantastic Nerello, with freshness, huge finesse and precision.