Domaine Zind-Humbrecht - Gewurztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain, 2013
The Humbrecht family trace their origins back to the Thirty Years War of 1620. In 1959 they created Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and are currently based in Turckheim, a small village just 7 km west of Colmar. Today, the domaine owns 40 hectares spread across five different villages.
The estate’s winemaker is Olivier Humbrecht MW, who was the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine. Olivier, a champion of biodynamic winemaking, is a sort of superstar among winemakers. He firmly believes that biodynamic winemaking (preserving vine and soil life) is the only way to ensure the authentic expression of terroir.
The Rangen de Thann is the most southerly of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. This plot lies at the exit of the valley, overlooking the village of Thann. Here the river “Thur” flows at the foot of the slope where the vineyard is located.
Since the Middle Ages Rangen de Thann has been renowned for producing excellent wines. In 1580, the philosopher Michel de Montaigne visited the district. He admired it so much that he gave the following description:
“Thann 4 leagues. First town in Germany, subject to the emperor, very fine, wide plain flanked on the left hand side with hillsides covered in vines, the finest and the best cultivated and so extensive that the Gascons who were there said they had never seen so many in succession.”
The wine has a wonderful goldish copper hue in the glass, with medium intensity of colour. To the nose, the endless intensity and aromaticity is immediately evident. Rich and deep but never hefty. A marked scent of rose water and lychee hits the nose in the attack, followed by notes of ripe pink grapefruit, turkish delight, ginger and a mix of mango and fleshy apricots. There are suggestions of cardamom, oriental spices, smoke, minerality and even ash that adds even more complexity. The nose is mesmerizing. Impressive.
To the palate, the wine is very full in body. It coats your mouth with a delicate viscosity. Despite being immensely rich and dense, there is a limpid acidity that lifts the wine splendidly, making it surprisingly alive. The flavours are intensely concentrated, yet the aromas are still nuanced. Opening with apricot skin and lychees it is then followed by hints of rose petal, ginger and nutmeg while fragrances of peach pulp and dried mango linger.
In the middle palate, scents of cardamon and ripe tangerine can be found. There is just a touch of residual sugar in the entrance but this dissolves beautifully in the progression. A smoky and flinty minerality encases the complex and intense flavours. A wonderfully long and satisfying finish. Superb! If you could only have a single Gewurztraminer in your entire life, this should be it.