Domaine Ostertag - Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner, 2015
Ostertag’s history began in 1966, with just three hectares of land. After studying in Burgundy, the second generation winemaker André Ostertag returned to Epfig and took the reins of the estate. Today the domaine owns 15 hectares that are split into 88 parcels poetically referred to as “gardens” (les jardins).
At the beginning of André Ostertag’s career, he gained a reputation as a maverick as he didn’t conform to established rules and traditions. Now he’s considered a pioneer and he is one of Alsace’s most respected wine producers. André Ostertag is an ardent environmentalist and firmly believes in a natural winemaking approach. His wines have been biodynamic since 1998. He chooses to manual harvest and refuses to use heavy machinery in his fields.
I visited Domaine Ostertag in November 2016. Their headquarter in Epfig pleasantly combines modernism and art and this is reflected in their wines and packaging. All the wine labels are drawn by Christine Colin, André‘s partner. Christine’s works are defined by a plastic abstract beauty – perfectly mirroring what’s inside the bottles.
The wine shines with a pale lemony hue in the glass. To the nose, it reveals a subtle and refined aromatic profile. Crunchy red apple, fresh lime and citrus flavours intercross a lovely green and flower note – fern, peach flowers, white pepper. These are precise and elegant aromas.
On the palate, the mouthfeel is both rich and slender, assertive and sleek. High in acidity. Medium in body. The extraordinarily refined nuances mirror the nose. Flavours are wrapped by a lovely gravel minerality. A touch of savoury undertones almost suggests a tannic presence. Racy tension combines with the elegance and juiciness in this wine. While a pleasant elegant finish tingles the mouth with minerality.