Albert Boxler - Riesling Sommerberg "E", 2013
This domain is based in Niedermorschwihr, another typical beautiful Alsatian town not far from Colmar. The Boxler vineyard holdings include 14 hectares and are centred on the imposing granite hillside of the Sommerberg Grand Cru, where some of their best wines (including this one) are from.
The Boxler family moved to Alsace from Switzerland in 1673. Albert Boxler, whose name this estate bears, returned to his region of origin in 1946, after World War II. His talented son Jean now runs the family business. Jean Boxler adopts a traditional winemaking approach, such as vinifying micro-parcels within his crus separately, or using old foudres to mature his wines.
The Boxlers use a code on each wine label to distinguish between the different vineyard parcels from which these grapes are sourced. For this riesling, “E” represents Eckberg, a lieu-dit within the Sommerberg Grand Cru.
The wine appears pale, bright and lemon-hued in the glass. On the nose, this riesling reveals what the best Alsace is all about. The flavours are both intense and focused, complex yet elusive. Ripe kumquats and juicy nectarine, along with a touch of crisp mature apple, pave the way to suggestions of white flowers, honeysuckle, porcini mushroom and even a hint of petrol-like aromas.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full in body, very mineral, rich and precise like a sharp knife. Ripe grapefruit, zesty citrus and stone fruit in the attack, then pungent herbs and some savoury nuances. All encased with a striking flinty minerality. The acidity is soaring and sublimely crystalline, perfectly cutting through the wine’s complex flavours. Overall this great riesling shows intense aromas and a long, pervasive finish. Punchy and precise, concentrated, aromatic and lively.