The second of a two-part article about Burgundy, the sensual heart of French wine. The Burgundy appellation system and quality levels (hopefully without headache!)
“Burgundy is the winiest wine, the central, essential, and typical wine, the soul and greatest common measure of all the kindly wines of the earth.”
Charles Edward Montague, English journalist and novelist
Like Montague, whose brilliant quote I cited above, I am a great fan of Burgundy. At their best, Burgundy wines express an immense refinement and sensuality. Alas, for winelovers the region is not the easiest to grasp.
I wrote this two-part article to shed some light on the greatness and intricacies of Burgundy wine. In the first part, I described Burgundy’s geography, climate, grape varieties and sub-regions. Here, in the second part, I will illustrate Burgundy’s famous appellation system and provide five tasting notes to illustrate what you can expect from the wines of this region.
Appellation system
Burgundy has shaped the wine world in many ways. Its greatest impact can be found in the wine world’s adoption of the Burgundy appellation system. Wine labels are based upon the appellation system and this can be frustrating if you don’t know how to read them. However, the strength of the Burgundian appellation structure is that it succeeds in catching the differences in wine quality levels. In fact, Burgundy appellation system is the framework for wine quality classifications all over the world.
Burgundy’s appellation system is a hierarchy based upon the quality of the vineyard area. Viticulture in Burgundy has been widespread since the Roman times, but we owe the thorough exploration of the Burgundian terroir to the monks of the Roman Catholic Church (in particular those belonging to the Order of the Cistercians). During the Middle ages, these monks meticulously studied the differences in vineyard plots and their effect on the wines produced.
All that study formed the basis of the present Burgundy appellation system. It encompasses four different quality levels: regional, village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru.
Price and rarity of wines go up as you ascend the the quality ladder. Conversely, you will also find that wines are progressively sourced from smaller and smaller areas. It’s not uncommon for producers (especially the larger ones) to release several wines spanning the entire quality range.
So that you can see how the wine can change from one quality level to another, I have included tasting notes for each quality level – five in total. Follow me as we take a virtual tasting tour of Burgundy wine!
Regional appellations
- The base of the quality pyramid
- Wines from these appellations account for around 50% of production
- In total, there are 22 regional appellations in the whole Burgundy area
- The most generic ACs (appellations) are Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc, which can be made from grapes grown anywhere in Burgundy
- Some regional appellations exist which state grapes have to be from slightly more restricted areas: Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Bourgogne Côtes Chalonnaise, Macon, Macon Villages, Côte de Nuit-Villages and Côte de Beaune-Village; these ACs produce marginally better quality wine than the most generic ACs
- Typically wines from these ACs represent the producer’s entry-level offering. Decent, inexpensive wines, they don’t normally express the nuances of a particular terroir
Domaine Denis Carré - Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune "La Perriere", 2016
Country: France
Region/appellation: Burgndy - Hautes Cotes de Beaune
Wine style: Dry red - Light and Perfumed
Grape(s): pinot noir
Average price: £22
Most Burgundian growers inherited the land from their ancestors. Not all though. Denis Carres started from nothing. In 1975 he bought his first parcel of vines using his savings. Now, after 40 years, the Carres family owns 13 hectares. Most of the land is located in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation.
Hautes Côtes de Beaune is an extensive regional appellation found in Côtes de Beaune. This territory sits between 300 and 500 metres – a higher elevation (Hautes Côtes actually means “high slopes”) than the more prestigious ACs. As a result, the climate is slightly colder. The wines from this appellation are fresh and zippy, though they normally lack the concentration of the higher quality ACs.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 10-Feb-2019)
In the glass, the wine appears a pale light ruby. To the nose, the intensity of flavours is medium. Crunchy red fruit notes are at its core: red cherry, strawberry, raspberry. On the edges, there is a touch of peppery and toast spices.
Crunchy, fresh red fruit dominates the palate. The acidity is decisively high, making a fresh and quaffable wine which is light to medium in body. The finish is medium in length, with a reminiscence of earth noticeable. Although this is not a complex or intense wine, it is fresh and pleasant.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.0/10
Village appellations
- Around 30% of the overall wine production
- There are 53 villages in Burgundy that are entitled to put their names on the label (and a corresponding AC exists for each). Grapes from lesser villages are used in wines under the regional “Villages” appellation (for example Côte de Nuit-Villages, Côte de Beaune-Village, etc., depending on the sub-region)
- Some highly regarded villages include:
- Chablis: Chablis
- Côte de Nuit: Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee, Nuits-Saint-George
- Côte de Beaune: Aloxe-Corton, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet
- Côte Chalonnaise: Mercurey, Montagny, Givry
- Maconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, Saint-Veran
- A step up in quality from the regional appellations
- From these ACs, it’s possible to notice that the wine expresses the terroir. By this I mean the wine expresses a unique character specific to the place the grapes were grown
- Usually the name of a single village appears on the wine label
- The producer can use the specific village AC on the wine label only if the grapes come solely from that village
Sylvain Dussort - Meursault Vieilles Vignes, 2015
Country: France
Region/appellation: Burgundy - Meursault
Wine style: Dry white - Buttery and Complex
Grape(s): chardonnay
Average price: £45
Domaine Dussort embodies the typical spirit of Burgundian wine production. Coming from a long line of winemakers, Sylvain Dussort took over the estate in 1982.
The domaine accounts for only 6.5 hectares, therefore it is a small production. Nonetheless Sylvain is rightly proud of his creation. He has modernized the winery’s facilities, while preserving a traditional approach to winemaking. He vinifies different parcels separately to retain the authentic character of the terroir. Sylvain only uses native yeasts for fermentation and avoids any intrusive winemaking practice.
Domaine Dussort is based in Meursault, where this wine comes from. Meursault chardonnay is renowned to be the richest and most full-bodied of all Burgundy wines, exuding opulent flavours and a rich creaminess.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 16-Dec-2018)
In the glass, the wine has a pale lemon/straw hue. On the nose, it opens up with pronounced intensity of aromas. The flavours are rich and penetrating. Ripe citrus and grapefruit notes are followed by a pleasant toastiness, nuances of roasted cashew nuts and delicately smoked wood. Later, notes of lime leaves and lemon blossom hit the nose, along with suggestions of honeysuckle and lemon zest.
On the palate, this wine is full in body with a perfect mouthfeel. It has a good presence which is not too heavy. The flavours are concentrated, but also precise and refined. There is a great balance between the intensity of flavours and a fresh acidity (medium+ in level). You can also see this balance in the succession of ripe fruit, elegant toastiness, roasted nuts flavours which combine with a pinch of creamy notes and dried herbs aromas. Long persisting finish. On a whole, this wine achieves intensity and delicacy at the same time. A really good wine. Quality-wise we are at the top-limit for a village appellation.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.0/10
Premier Cru
- Around 10% of the overall wine production
- There are almost 600 Premier Crus in Burgundy
- Since there are a lot of Premier Crus in the area, style and quality vary a lot
- Normally these wines range from good to outstanding in quality
- Vineyards of higher quality generally have favourable aspect and drainage and are found in the middle of a slope
- These wines show greater concentration of flavours
- Good ageing potential
- Oak and other winemaking options are more used
- On the wine label will be written the reference village, followed by the words “Premier Cru” (or “1er Cru”), then optionally the vineyard name. You will only see the vineyard name on the label in cases where the grapes are sourced from a single vineyard. If the vineyard name is missing, this means the Premier Cru wine is made from grapes belonging to different vineyards, each of which has been granted Premier Cru status
- Example: “Meursault Premier Cru Charmes”, where “Meursault” is the name of the village, “Premier Cru” the quality level and “Charmes” the name of the single vineyard from where the grapes were sourced.
Domaine Potinet-Ampeau - Volnay Premier Cru "Clos des Chenes", 1998
Country: France
Region/appellation: Burgundy - Volnay Clos des Chenes
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and classic
Grape(s): pinot noir
Average price: £180
Domaine Potinet-Ampeau has a long tradition of winemaking in Burgundy. Now on the fifth generation, these growers are based in the small village of Monthelie, in the southern part of Côtes de Beaune. The domain works 21 acres of land, mostly in the communes of Meursault, Volnay and Auxey-Duresses. Producing both red and white wines, Domaine Potinet-Ampeau was one of the first to export fine Burgundy wine to the US market.
This wine comes from Volnay, a prestigious commune known for producing delicate and refined reds.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 25-Oct-2018)
To the eye, this wine is pale ruby with garnet rims. To the nose, it reveals a pronounced intensity of flavours. Concentrated and defined, classy and elusive in nature, it shows great complexity. Intense red fruit notes come through, underlined by splendid earthy and balsamic nuances. Raspberry, preserved cherry, red plums, hints of autumn leaves, juniper, black olive, potpourri, bay leaves and terra rossa integrate in perfect harmony. Delicate suggestions of cloves, cinnamon and roasted meat in progression. A superb bouquet, wonderful to the nose.
On the palate, the wine unfolds with extreme refinement. In the mouth, it moves splendidly with grace and agility. Medium in body, its fine-grained tannins are very silky. The acidity is high, linear and fragrant. The complexity of flavours match the nose. Fresh and dried red fruit notes complements earthy spices. Very long finish, with delicate oak undertones of cloves, toast, cinnamon. Great intensity and complexity. A beautifully evolved red Burgundy.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.3/10
Domaine Billaud-Simon - Chablis Premier Cru "Montee de Tonnerre", 2007
Country: France
Region/appellation: Burgundy - Chablis Montee de Tonnerre
Wine style: Dry white - Green and Flinty
Grape(s): chardonnay
Average price: £55
Domaine Billaud Simon is one of the most established names of Chablis. The domaine history traces its origin back to 1815. Rooted in the centre of Chablis, the vineyards are located on both sides of the river Serein. Today, Domaine Billaud Simon extends over a 17 hectare area and produces wines spanning the full quality level spectrum: from Petit Chablis and Chablis (village appellation), to four Premier Crus and even a Grand Cru.
The wine below comes from Montee de Tonnerre, one of Chablis’ most highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards. The plot terroir, especially the high-quality Kimmeridgian soil, shares some similarities with the Chablis Grand Cru.
This chardonnay sees no oak at all – a common feature of most of the wines produced by Domaine Billaud Simon. This is a stylistic choice, aimed at producing crisp and mineral Chablis, with great elegance and purity. Nonetheless, these wines have great ageing capabilities – as this 2007 perfectly demonstrates.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 25-Oct-2018)
Due to ageing, the wine is a beautiful light gold hue colour of medium intensity.
To the nose, it starts a bit closed but then reveals a clear yeasty character. Notes of bread dough, brioche and biscuits are very evident. The wine is reminiscent of a still Champagne! The yeasty profile combines with gentle hints of smoke and toast, along with nuances of white blossoms, ripe lemon and pear, and even a suggestion of nectarine. The stony minerality is really attractive – giving the bouquet a subtle and refined touch.
On the palate, the wine has a medium to full body, with good density. The acidity is just perfect: high, linear, crystalline. Perfectly cutting the ripe pear and grapefruit notes, with hints of nectarine and delicate toast wrapped in a yeasty character first found on the nose. Quite a long finish, fairly smoky.
Intensity of flavours is between medium+ and pronounced. Not a Grand Cru, but this wine makes up for it with huge class and great balance of all its constituents.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.2/10
Grand Cru
- Around 1-2% of the overall wine production
- Only 34 Grand Crus in the entire Burgundy area: 33 in Côte d’Or and 1 in Chablis
- Côte de Nuits (the north part of Côte d’Or) contains 25 Grand Crus: 24 are for red wines, and one for white
- Côte de Beaune (the south part of Côte d’Or) contains 8 Grand Crus: 1 for reds, 7 for whites
- Vineyards of the best quality possible; the plots have the best aspect, soil, elevation
- The wines display huge concentration of flavours and the quality level is outstanding
- These wines have great ageing capabilities, ideal for long-term cellaring
- Since the vines are planted in the best spots available, the grapes achieve more ripeness and intensity. This results in grapes with more sugar which in turn produces wine with a higher alcohol content
- On the label, usually the village name is omitted; the vineyard denomination is shown, followed by the “Grand Cru” wording; hence these labels can difficult to read, unless you know the Grand Cru vineyard names!
- Example of denomination on the label: “Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru”, where “Chevalier-Montrachet” is the vineyard name (a Grand Cru vineyard within the commune of Puligny-Montrachet)
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze - Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, 2010
Country: France
Region/appellation: Burgundy (Cote de Nuits) - Clos de Vougeot
Wine style: Dry red - Savory and Classic
Grape(s): Pinot noir
Average price: £100
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze was founded in 1850 by by Jean-Baptiste Laroze. Over the following decades, the vignerons of the Drouhin’s family proved wise enough to secure some of the best vineyard plots in the Cote de Nuits. To present, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze owns a total of six different Grand Crus, a record few families in Burgundy have surpassed.
Clos de Vougeot is one of these Grand Crus. It is actually one of the most famous Grand Crus in Burgundy. And the largest, with its 50 hectares of extension. Clos de Vougeot is divided into 100 different parcels owned by some 80 different producers. A clear sign of the notorious fragmentation of the Burgundian vineyards.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 10-Feb-2018)
To the eye, a rich ruby hue with the characteristic pale intensity of French pinot noir. To the nose, this wine presents a huge concentration from the beginning. It’s intensely perfumed, heady and sensual. The red and black fruit is very rich and ripe (but somehow not overripe): raspberry compote, fleshy cherry, red and black plums. A touch of dried red berries coming through as well. Intensely spiced, the wine combines a double nature: earth and sweet suggestions. Notes of autumn leaves, old bark, juniper meet nuances of thyme, sage, clove, nutmeg, leather. The flower component is splendid: violet, rose, lilac. A truly sensual beauty, with immense richness and complexity.
To the palate this wine is medium to full in body, with a dense and rich red and black fruitiness that coats your mouth. Almost like chewing juicy cherry pulp. Tons of different spices follow one another: earth, juniper, a soft liquorice nuance, anise, old bark, sage, thyme, but also a delicate meatiness with furry accents. The acidity is just perfect: high, linear, crystalline – magnificently cutting the intense fruitiness. Tannins are medium/medium+ in level, but very silky and fine-grained. A perfect Burgundy mouthfeel! Really intense and multi-layered, with a super-long finish, its sensual touch permeating for ages. A superb red Burgundy!
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.6/10
Owning vineyards and business models
Similar to other wine regions, Burgundy wine producers can be split into three categories. These categories are: co-operative, grower, and negociant.
Co-operatives are businesses made up of several growers working together, using shared facilities, to create and sell wine. In Burgundy co-operatives are not as common as in other regions. However, there are some in the Chablis and Maconnais districts.
Growers are viticulturists that own the land and produce wine using only grapes sourced from their estates. Vineyard ownership is very fragmented in Burgundy. Often a grower owns just a few vine rows in each plot. This adds to the general confusion of wine label, because different producers can use the same vineyard name (hence the same wine denomination) on their labels. In the rare circumstances where a single grower owns an entire vineyard, the area is called monopole.
Negociants don’t normally own land. Instead, they buy grapes or must from growers and then proceed to vinify and release wines onto the market. Since individual growers’ holdings are so fragmented in Burgundy, often negociants guarantee more consistency and availability. This is due to the negociants’ freedom to source grapes from different growers. With this freedom, negociants are able to ensure the quality of the fruit matches their expectations. They can also blend wines from different parcels, increasing their overall annual production.
A small catch: price
The best Burgundian wines (both reds and whites) offer an astonishing sensorial experience. They are complex, refined, elegant and even sensual.
There is only one catch. The price. The region is highly esteemed by connoisseurs and collectors. Despite the ever increasing customer demand, top Burgundian winegrowers produce only a limited quantity of wines . As a result, prices surge.
The wine producer Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (abbreviated as DRC for their aficionados) makes a Romanee-Conti Grand Cru pinot noir that is consistently listed as one of the most expensive Burgundian wines. Depending on the vintage, a bottle costs from £15,000 – £20,000. If you check Wine-Searcher’s list of most expensive wines in the world, seven wines in the top ten are from Cote d’Or in Burgundy.
Final thoughts
Burgundy, like Bordeaux, sets the standard for red and white wines around the world. Wine lovers usually use to adjective Burgundian to describe the refined and classy character of a wine.
Top quality Burgundy is never cheap. A bottle of good Premier Cru and Grand Cru often cost at least a couple of hundred pounds or dollars. Unless you have a deep pocket (if you do, good on you!), great Burgundy is not a wine to drink on a daily basis. But I do recommend a good Burgundy wine as a treat every now and then (maybe from the more accessible villages I mentioned in my previous article). There are few regions in the world where wine can shine so gloriously as Burgundy!
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