We move north and east of Bordeaux to discover the appellations of the Right Bank (where merlot is king) and Entres-Deux-Mers (a white wine land). With 4 tasting notes for reference
Welcome to my third and last article on Bordeaux wine. In case you missed it, in the first article I introduced the Bordeaux region, talking about its history, climate and grape varieties. In the second post, I dealt with Bordeaux’s generic appellations and its famous Left Bank. Here, in this final article, I will cover the Right Bank and Entres-Deux-Mers.
If you have forgotten what these strange denominations mean… Here is a short recap of the Bordeaux sub-regions. The two rivers of Bordeaux – Dordogne and Garonne – define three main districts:
- Left Bank: the area west and south of the Garonne
- Entre-Deux-Mers: the land between the Garonne and Dordogne
- Right Bank: the territory north and east of the Dordogne
Bordeaux Right Bank: the idyllic realm of merlot
The number of differences between the Left and Right Bank would startle a typical Bordeaux visitor. For example, Left Bank chateaux often produce large quantities of bottles. Right Bank growers, on the other hand, release a very limited amount of wine. Right Bank wine is much more difficult to find on the foreign market (and for the same reason quite expensive).
Self-confident, swaggering grand estates dominate the Left Bank, especially in the Medoc area. Bankers, insurers or wealthy foreign investors usually own these estates. Whereas the typical Right Bank producer is a family-run business, with a down-to-earth approach. Stoic farmers with little time for anything else.
Also the geography is different. The Left Bank is a vast flat expanse of land – rather dull with the exception of a grand chateau dotted here and there. Conversely, the Bordeaux Right Bank, with the stunning medieval town of Saint-Emilion at its heart, is surrounded by rolling hills and has almost a pastoral feeling.
The overall climate is more continental in the Right Bank, due to the region being slightly more inland. The soil, richer in clay, is less gravelly. For this reason, merlot is the king of the Right Bank and dominates the red blends.
The merlot grape brings ripe, plummy red and black fruit aromas, so intense that they seem almost sweet. Merlot is more supple and less austere than cabernet sauvignon. As a result, Right Bank blends are more approachable and can be happily enjoyed even at an earlier stage of maturation. This does not mean these wines have less longevity. With some years in bottle, they will reveal aromas of tobacco, earth, cedar box and dried berries. Curiously, the Right Bank is a red wine only realm.
Right Bank appellations
Saint-Emilion is the largest appellation in the Right Bank. The reds from this appellation have medium to high tannins, with a softer and richer mouthfeel than those from Medoc. Full of ripe red fruit and plum aromas, these wines acquire tobacco and cedar notes with age.
The appellation of Saint-Emilion defines different quality levels, organised in a hierarchical pyramid:
- Saint-Emilion AC: the bottom of the appellation system
- Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe: a level up in quality
- Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe: the highest level of the classification. This rank is further divided into Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe B, and Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A. The latter, being the best of the best.
The classification is revised roughly every decade. For growers to be promoted, throughout the years they have to demonstrate a consistent track record of excellence.
Clos Fourtet - Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 2011
Country: France
Region/appellation: Bordeaux - Saint-Emilion
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 89% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc
Average price: £95
Clos Fourtet is one of the most famous winemakers in Saint-Emilion. Curiously enough, this property did not start as a wine estate. During the Middle Ages, Clos Fourtet was originally erected as a defensive fort, with the name of Camfourtet (Camp Fort).
Like many other producers in Bordeaux, Clos Fourtet has seen a number of owners come and go over the years. Currently the estate is owned by Philippe Cuvelier.
Clos Fourtet is ranked as Premier grand cru classé B in the Saint-Emilion appellation classification hierarchy.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 03-Dec-2018)
Dark and intense ruby in colour, to the nose it immediately reveals a pronounced intensity of flavours. Great ripeness and focus, with intense black fruit and a defined earthiness. Aromas of dark plums, black cherry and creme de cassis from the fruit side. Also, the scents of autumn leaves, liquorice, perfumed violet flowers and even a delicate touch of sweet spices (clove and nutmeg). Some secondary aromas reveal the use of oak: cigar box, toast and delicate smoke. The nose is very fragrant and penetrating, luscious, yet sharp as a knife.
Full in body, extremely rich in the mouth with great structure and elegance. The luscious and plummy fruitiness perfectly combines with oak flavours, such as smoke, clove, nutmeg, chocolate and cigar box. Violet flowers add class. Everything is perfectly integrated. Very complex and succulent. Tannins are high in level, powerful and silky at the same time. Long lingering finish. An outstanding red.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.2/10
Pomerol is the other Right Bank district with the highest reputation. Wines from this district are generally richer and spicer than Saint-Emilion. Gearing more towards black fruit (ripe blackberry, black plums), they have luscious and heady fruitiness.
The Pomerol appellation is the simplest. There are no ranks or levels, just one catch-all AC for all the reds produced in the area. Incidentally, Pomerol is also home of one of the most legendary and expensive wines in Bordeaux: Château Pétrus.
Château La Conseillante - Pomerol, 2007
Country: France
Region/appellation: Bordeaux - Pomerol
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
Average price: £140
Considered one of the best winemakers of Pomerol, Château La Conseillante is also among the oldest in the region. We know wine was produced by La Conseillante as far back as 1756.
While the majority of estates in Bordeaux changed ownership over time, Château La Conseillante is an exception in this regard.
Since 1871, the estate has been owned by the Nicolas family. Even more impressively, they have kept the same vineyard plots intact since they bought the property.
A brief note about winemaking. The grapes are harvested by hand and are then fermented in stainless steel vats. The wine is aged in small oak casks (90% new) for around 20 months. La Conseillante bottle their wines unfiltered.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 03-Dec-2018)
To the eye, the wine has a dark ruby hue, with slightly lighter rims. Deep intensity of colour. To the nose, it shows a massive concentration and depth of flavours from the start. Hugely intense, fragrant and perfumed. The different scents chase each other enraptured in a harmonious dance. Ripe and succulent aromas of raspberry compote, mulberry, blackberry and plums give way to secondary and tertiary flavours. Dried flowers, rose, violet, earth, rosemary, sandalwood, leather, meat, camphor and a hint of oriental spices. A really stunning bouquet!
On the palate, it’s full in body, rich, succulent. But at the same time, surprisingly preserving a great freshness. Ripe and plummy black fruit mingle with tons of other nuances. A fragrant touch of red brick minerality wraps everything up. Extremely ripe tannins create a mouth coating structure, full of density. A really long satisfying finish is another mark of true greatness. This wine is so intense, complex and mesmerising. Even in a not-so-good vintage as 2007, this wine stands out with an otherworldly excellence.
Wine and other Stories rating: 9.6/10
Apart from the two stars of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, the Right Bank features a number of lesser known appellations. Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac are often overlooked. The most elegant of the two is Fronsac but both have hidden gems at a good price point. In addition, these districts have an interesting history. In Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac, vestiges of the Romans and Charlemagne empire remain. While in the 18th and early 19th centuries both Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac wines were in high demand. Unfortunately, the phylloxera havoc seriously decimated their production and relevance.
Château de la Dauphine - Fronsac, 2014
Country: France
Region/appellation: Bordeaux - Fronsac
Wine style: Dry red - Savoury and Classic
Grape(s): 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Average price: £20
Château de la Dauphine is one of the oldest properties in the area. Its origin tracing back to the late 16th century. The Chateau ownership changed a few times since then, and today it is listed among the most renowned and finest producers in Fronsac.
The estate, with its refined Château, sits on the top of a slope overlooking the confluence of the Dordogne and Isle rivers.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 03-Dec-2018)
Dark ruby and deep to the eye. On the palate, this Bordeaux presents a good concentration (medium+ intensity) with ripe red and black fruit and a really nice spiciness. Notes of red and black plums, blackberry and cherry mixed with bramble, a touch of prunes and chocolate. Even a hint of anise.
On the palate, the wine is full in body with a ripe and attractive fruitiness (mostly black fruit). Very plummy in the attack. A lovely spiciness in the mid-palate, with nuances of thyme, espresso coffee, cedar wood, liquorice and thyme. Structure wise, the tannins are medium to high, very smooth and ripe. Nice acidity (medium+). Great balance overall. A very good wine at this price point.
Wine and other Stories rating: 8.5/10
North and east of Saint-Emilion there are a number of districts collectively known as Saint-Emilion Satellites. This horseshoe-shaped area includes the appellations of Puisseguin, Lussac, Montagne and St. Georges St. Emilion. These Satellites generally produce good wines, and some stand-out stylish examples. They are still relatively well-priced compared to the most famous Bordeaux appellations. A few of the best vineyards even have old vines, some of which are more than a 100 years old.
Château Teyssier - Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, 2013
Country: France
Region/appellation: Bordeaux - Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion
Wine style: Dry red - Savory and Classic
Grape(s): 72% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average price: £14
Another Chateau with a long history, Chateau Teyssier lies a few kilometres northeast of St. Emilion, in the territory of the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation. Nowadays, it is owned by the Englishman Jonathan Maltus.
With 10 different wines produced, Chateau Teyssier is one of the largest operators in the St. Emilion area. This Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion is probably their blockbuster wine.
Tasting notes
(tasted on: 03-Dec-2018)
In the glass, this red has a prefect ruby hue and medium to deep intensity. To the nose, it unfolds juicy, fragrant red and black fruit, with an emphasis on the former. There are mostly aromas of raspberry, red cherry and plums. The wine is fruit-driven, with not much beyond that. Although one can sense hints of earth, liquorice and a touch of green pepper. Medium intensity and concentration.
On the palate, this red is medium in body with a refreshing (medium+) acidity. Relatively light in style, especially when compared to other reds in this article. Notes of juicy red fruit reign supreme. A touch of green stalkiness and toast in the finish. The tannins are moderate, still delicate and well-rounded. Good balance, decent concentration – but not massive.
Wine and other Stories rating: 7.7/10
To complete the multi-coloured picture of the Right Bank appellations there are also Castillon, Franc, Blaye (with the addition of Cadillac from Entres-Deux-Mers) which together form the Côtes de Bordeaux AC. This appellation and the similar Côtes-de-Bourg provide simpler, merlot-based blends suitable for early consumption.
Entres-Deux-Mers
Entres-Deux-Mers is a large appellation reserved only for white wines. The reds from this area have to be labelled as Bordeaux AC or Bordeaux Supérieur AC. As its name reveals (“between two seas”) this region sits between the two main rivers of Bordeaux: Garonne and Dordogne.
Although nowadays Entres-Deux-Mers is not the first appellation to come to mind when thinking of Bordeaux, it does have a long winemaking history. It is in fact the oldest wine region in France. More than two millennia ago, the Romans brought viticulture here. Benedictine Monks kept the winemaking tradition alive during the Middle Ages and with their hard work, uplifted the reputation of the wines produced in this area.
Entres-Deux-Mers region – wikipedia.org – Pic by Pinpin
Most of the blends produced in Entres-Deux-Mers are dry and sauvignon blanc based. They are generally made without oak and feature a fresh character.
Sweet white wines are also made in Entres-Deux-Mers. These wines take advantage of noble rot when the climatic conditions permit; alternatively they are produced with a passerillage (late harvest) approach.
Vintages
Before ending this series dedicated to Bordeaux wine, I think it’s a good idea to mention the best vintages of the last two decades. As mentioned in the first article, vintage variations are important in Bordeaux. The quality and character of the same wine can vary considerably from one year to the next.
The best vintages of the last twenty years are: 2000, 2001, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016.
Some years might be more favorable for one Bordeaux bank over another. They may have slight variations from zone to zone. The above, however, are generally considered the best years throughout the region, for both Left and Right Bank.
Final thoughts
Bordeaux is a huge topic for wine lovers. There are plenty of detailed books and resources out there. In this blog I only scratched the surface of this fine wine region.
The best way to satisfy your thirst for knowledge is to try wines from different Bordeaux districts and appellations. However I recommend moderation. As you might discover that loving Bordeaux too much can turn into an expensive and unhealthy habit!
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