In the third part of my ‘drinking under lockdown’ series I present two tasty wines from Maule Valley (Chile): a blend by Undurraga ‘Terroir Hunter’ and a chilean malbec by Altamana!
Although we remain in a world-wide pandemic, we have started to glimpse the light at the end of the tunnel. Of course, crowded tastings and wine trips are still not possible. However, in some places, tasting rooms are quietly reopening and a number of countries are relaxing their lockdown measures.
While I hope my cautious optimism is not misplaced, I have been enjoying some wonderful wines at home. As I wrote previously on Wine and Other Stories, the advantages of a slow paced, intimate consumption should not be overlooked.
This is the third part of my drinking under lookdown series (read the first and the second parts to find out more) where I share with my readers some of the best wines I drank under lockdown. In this article, we head to the Maule Valley, in Chile – the birthplace of the two wines I will be presenting: Undurraga T.H. ‘Terroir Hunter’ Rarities Cauquenes (Garnacha – Carinena – Monastrell) and Altamana Grande Reserve Malbec.
Chile: a New World wine country with an Old World soul
In the past few weeks, I have found myself drinking a lot of Chilean wines. You might be tempted to associate Chile with the inexpensive reds stacked in a supermarket shelf. But don’t be fooled: Chile does produce exquisite bottles at affordable prices – especially in the £15 – £35 price bracket.
A unique wine country on its own, Chile belongs to the New World, but one may say it retains an Old World soul. Spanish and French winemakers have deeply shaped the wines produced in this long-and-narrow South American nation. Most Chilean wines are fruity and ripe. However, the savoury and spicy flavours often found in Chilean wines are testimonies of a clear European influence.
Where the wines are from: the Maule Valley
The wines in this article are from Maule Valley, a district located in the southernmost part of the Central Valley, the largest and most renowned wine region in Chile. The Central Valley lies between two mountains ranges: the Andes on the west and the lower Coastal Mountains on the east side.
Generally, the climate in Chile is warm and Mediterranean. However, the Maule Valley stretches on the south of the Central Valley. From the Chilean Capital, Santiago, it would take you a four-hour drive to reach Talca, Maule’s main city. Being so south, the Maule Valley experiences a colder climate than the rest of the Central Valley. While summers are warm, the winters are generally cool and rainy. Also, the region features a marked diurnal excursion (the difference in temperature between day and night is pronounced).
These peculiar climatic factors influence the wine’s style (as I explained in this article). Maule Valley’s wines exhibit freshness and a good acidity, while preserving ripeness and concentration.
With regard to grape varieties, the Maule Valley was historically famous for bulk table wine, especially from the workhorse grape pais. Thankfully things are changing. The resourceful Chilean winemakers are planting more and more international varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon, carmenere and merlot. However, probably the best hidden secret of the Maule Valley is its wonderful carignan. The best wines from this grape are made from old vines which are dry farmed (no artificial irrigation) and tended with care.
After this brief introduction to the Maule Valley, I think we are ready to delve into the details of the two wines… Enjoy!
Undurraga T.H. ‘Terroir Hunter’ Rarities Cauquenes (Garnacha – Carinena – Monastrell) 2013
This powerful yet elegant blend comes from Cauquenes, the south-east district of the Maule region. As stated in Undurraga’s official website: “The T.H. project seeks to deliver wines of origin which are different, innovative, rare and unique, with a strong character that fully expresses their origin and the authenticity of the place”. In this wine they clearly found what they were looking for!
Undurraga - 'Terroir Hunter' Rarities Garnacha - Carinena - Monastrell, 2013
Undurraga is one of the oldest and most prominent names in the Chilean wine scene. Vina Undurraga was officially founded in 1885, when Don Francisco Undurraga Vicuna brought several European grape cuttings to Chile to start his own wine business. Since then, Undurraga has grown and prospered. In 2006, business millionaire José Yuraszeck took ownership of the winery. As a result, Undurraga underwent further improvements and modernisation. One such measure was the creation of the ‘Terroir Hunter’ range (to which this wine belongs), a collection of wines which best display the combination of climate, soil and grape variety.
This wine is made from a blend of grenache, carignan and mourvedre. It is matured for one year in 225-litre barrels, and an additional year in larger foudres before release.
Dark ruby in the glass, the wine has a deep intensity of colour. To the nose, it exhibits a pronounced concentration of flavours. Succulent red and black fruit in the attack, ripe but not jammy. Notes of blackberry, red and black cherry and prunes alternate with an enticing spiciness. Dried tobacco, chocolate, cloves and dried fennel mingle with leather and animal fur and a touch of lavender and thyme. A complex nose, multi-layered and profound.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full in body. Warm and rich in the attack, with the intense flavours lifted by a wiry high acidity and plenty of ripe tannins. The bold fruitiness is counterbalanced by a rich spiciness, intense and delicate at the same time. The mouthfeel has weight and substance, with a long and smooth finish exuding balsamic suggestions. A great blend!
Altamana Grande Reserve Malbec 2018
If you believe that the only good South American malbec comes from Argentina, you’ll change your mind after trying this specimen! Admittedly, this was my first malbec from the Maule Valley. Therefore, I can’t say whether Altamana’s style is a reflection of the common Maule malbec characteristics.
What I can say is that this malbec shares the black fruit aromas of its Argentinian counterparts but is more savoury and spicy. Definitely worth trying if you are looking for something off the beaten track. Bonus point: the wine is very affordable for its quality!
Altamana - Grande Reserve Malbec, 2018
Patrick d’Aulan and Didier Debono are the personalities behind Altamana. Together, the two Frenchmen have a longstanding track record stretching from Bordeaux to the New World.
In 2012, d’Aulan and Debono established Altamana in the Maule Valley. The duo did extensive research on malbec in Chile and discovered that the best ones come from the centenary malbec vines planted in the Maule area. Altamana’s mission is to resuscitate those ancient vineyards. Looking at this wine, it seems d’Aulan and Debono are on the right path!
Deep ruby on the glass, with a tinge of violet. On the nose, it has a medium+ intensity of flavours. Ripe black fruit aromas (blackberry, black plums) intersperse with warm sensations, penetrating and sharp. Prunes, macerated fruit, liquorice, Turkish coffee, black olives and a suggestion of meaty juices.
On the palate, the wine is medium to full in body. Dense black fruit attack. Savoury notes show up in the mid-palate – smoked wood, thyme, coffee and dried herbal notes. Good balance between stalkiness, toast and fruity components. This malbec is definitively more savoury than most of its South American counterparts. Good acidity and a high level of tannins, pleasantly bitter. Decent finish with an interesting herbal edge (thyme and pine needle nuances).
I hope you enjoyed my introduction to these two flavoursome red wines. On wine-seacher.com, both wines are easily available. If you fancy sipping something from Chile, I believe either of them will be a great choice. Let me know your thoughts if you have the chance to try them. Salute!
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